Replaced struts with Quick-Struts - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


2000-2005 Discuss your 2000-2005 Bonneville SE, SLE, and SSEi Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 10-02-2012, 12:48 PM   #11
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Below is the official tool list (from memory)
10, 15 and 24 mm socket (not including socket to remove tire)
Floor jack
Jack stand
PB blaster
Big screwdriver
Big hammer
a pin for the hammer to hit to knock out the 24mm bolts

Thats about it. The PB bluster is only needed for the 10mm bolts that hold the brake lines.

Super easy.....
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Old 01-19-2014, 04:07 PM   #12
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Its now 2014 and my 2001 SLE needed struts replaced. I got the Monroe quick strut set and was worried I wouldn't be able to get nut off the bolt to knuckle. that was easy and PB Blaster is good stuff. If I had not read the hammer trick, and I was using a regular 22 oz hammer, I would have been forced into quitting. I switched to a 3 lb hammer and drove them out just fine. I did have a question - how do you know you have them in correctly when putting them back? I figure if I didn't, the bold would form new splines, but hopefully that wasn't the case. It had a bit of maneuvering difficulty getting over the boot. I also did my tie rod ends - the balls were rusty, don't know how I managed to pass inspection. PBBlaster again, one broken Craftsman 13mm wrench, glad I did have a 22mm (and PBblaster, lots, multiple times) just to get the lock nut loose. Then breaking my open ended wrench - vice grips worked better. I did fail on the wheel bearling - I could never break a single one of those bolts. Bottom line, a solid day'* repair for me, but next time will probably be easier and I'll start the week before with the PBBlaster. Thanks everyone!
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Old 01-19-2014, 04:15 PM   #13
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the wheel bearing bolts heve a bunch of lock-tight on them, so to break them loose you have to undo the axle nut and push it in so it will give you clearance for a deep impact socket, then you can use a impact or long bar, like about 2-3ft, and you have to turn the wheel to fit the bar
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Old 01-19-2014, 05:11 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwfirebird View Post
the wheel bearing bolts heve a bunch of lock-tight on them, so to break them loose you have to undo the axle nut and push it in so it will give you clearance for a deep impact socket, then you can use a impact or long bar, like about 2-3ft, and you have to turn the wheel to fit the bar
Thank you. Was just going to start on other side. Rounded first bolt I tried yesterday, so stopped there. Not sure my nice six point craftsman impact socket will help at this point, and really don't want to drill out (especially since you mentioned lock tight). Thanks for the advice!

In my garage: 2001 Bonneville SLE, 2013 Buick LaCrosse, 2000 and 2011 Chrysler Town and Country, and 98 Honda Prelude. Total miles greater than 600k with the Buick at less than 2000
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Old 01-19-2014, 05:17 PM   #15
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if they break it sucks trying to get loose. i welded another nut on my inlaws ram. and had to heat the hub with acetylene torch were the threads are on the wheel side
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Old 01-20-2014, 10:36 AM   #16
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Finished up yesterday evening. Did tie rod ends on each side. When I lowered the car, first off, it sits higher in the front than I expected and the camber is visually out - whats up with that? The more disconcerting thing (call me a novice) - I was ruthless careful to ensure I kept the jam nut where it needed to be and reinstalled the new tie rod ends. The car is so far toed out it is again visual. Substitute novice with stupid maybe, am I missing anything? I won't drive it like that but want to get a handle on what the best approach is to trouble shooting. The height increase may tend to affect camber and the Monroe instructions said the car would settle over time. I assume I got the right parts - they looked the same when I had old next to new. The tie rod ends I went so far as to go back under the car to ensure they were the same size as the old parts, and they were. Struts are seated properly, at least as far as I can tell. Nothing looks bent. I am just totally surprised at the results. I can adjust the toe to be zero with a tape measure (61 on back 64 on front with tape measure at tie rod height - that is HUGE). Ok so now the whole world knows I don't know, but that is how you learn.
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Old 01-20-2014, 03:49 PM   #17
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neither is anything to worry about, it will settle and when they do the alignment it will be right, things move and its actually hard to see things visually because your eyes deceive you. thats why they use machines to do it
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Old 03-02-2014, 04:49 PM   #18
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How do the monroe quickstruts ride? Im having a trouble finding strut mounts that dont rattle with my kybs and thinking about going this route.
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Old 03-02-2014, 04:55 PM   #19
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you dont want Monroe if you like the kyb ride. they ride more like se struts. what have you tried? they probably have just mounts from kyb
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Old 03-02-2014, 05:00 PM   #20
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Dont want to take the thread off topic. Ive tried kybs, monroe, and I forget the third brand and they all clunk hitting small bumps.
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