rear door locks and windows do not work (UPDATED). - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 03-23-2008, 05:17 PM   #1
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Default rear door locks and windows do not work (UPDATED).

Hello to all.I just aquired a 2003 sle with 44k miles on it.the car is perfect except for the rear door windows and locks do not work at all.the driver front door and pass. door will unlock and lock as well as work the windows except the rear doors.the key pad will also arm dissarm and lock unlock all doors properly except the rear doors.I have removed both panels and tested for power to the wires and the only place i get power is from the plug with 4 wires to it that leads to the door module.the orange wire to be more precise.I have read probably a couple of hundred topics so far and have not come across a diagram or similar problem as this.the fuses and breakers have been checked and are also working properly.I have also cleaned all the grounding plugs and wires.I think what i need is a simple digram to explain what wires do what so i can trace the power shortage to were it starts.Thanks for any help in advance.

B Dennison

EDIT: Ijust realized i may have posted in the wrong area and if so i appologize.
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Old 03-23-2008, 07:36 PM   #2
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Here is the description and operation of the Door locks. This is much different than the operation of the locks in the 92-99

The vehicle is equipped with power door locks. Each door lock actuator is powered and controlled by the door module mounted in the individual door. The driver door module (DDM) is the master control for the door lock system but the rear integration module (RIM) determines when the lock functions are permitted.

The front passenger door interior lock switch is wired to the front passenger door module (PDM) while the driver door interior lock switch is wired to the driver door switch assembly (DDSA). Interior lock switches are not provided for the rear doors. The DDSA and the PDM send the lock switch requests to the DDM over the power door serial data circuit. The DDM then sends the lock requests to the RIM over the Class 2 serial data circuits.

The lock operation modes are controlled by the RIM. The RIM examines the lock and unlock requests from the DDM, or the remote function actuator (RFA). The RIM also examines the transmission shift selector position and the ignition switch position information available over the Class 2 serial data circuits. If the RIM determines that a lock or unlock function is permitted, it sends a class 2 message back to the DDM commanding the DDM to perform that function. The DDM then locks or unlocks the driver door and sends commands to the rest of the door modules, via the power door serial data circuit, to lock or unlock their respective doors.


and here is the window description and operation

The vehicle is equipped with power windows controlled by the door modules. Each passenger door window can be operated, either from a switch built into the driver door switch assembly (DDSA), or from a switch mounted locally to its associated door. The driver door window can be operated only from the driver door window switch built into the DDSA.

When a window is operated from the DDSA, the DDSA interprets the window switch signal as a specific window switch request and sends the information to the driver door module (DDM) via the power door serial data circuit. The DDM examines the request and checks to see if it has received any class 2 serial data messages from any of the other vehicle modules (i.e. ignition switch position) prohibiting the movement of the window. If the window being operated is the driver door window, and if no prohibitive class 2 messages have been received, the DDM then applies voltage and ground to the driver door window motor to move the window glass as requested. If the window being operated is a passenger door window, and no prohibitive class 2 messages have been received, the DDM sends the request, via the power door serial data circuit, to the appropriate passenger door module. The passenger door module then applies voltage and ground to the passenger door window motor to move the window glass as requested.

When a passenger door window is operated from the power window switch mounted locally to its associated door, the passenger door module first checks to see if the DDM has received any prohibitive class 2 serial data messages. If there are no prohibitive messages, the passenger door module powers the associated passenger door window motor.


so it sounds like the DDM might be faulty in this case. please let the other 00+ guys take a look at this/reply as well before taking any action
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Old 03-23-2008, 09:05 PM   #3
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Thanks for the tech.So what you are saying is that no matter if i use the switches via the rear doors or via keyless entry or front doors if they are working properly and the driver door module is not then that could be why my rear doors are dead?This is were i need that diagram.
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Old 03-23-2008, 10:21 PM   #4
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PM with an Email address & I'll send you some wiring diagrams.
They're very simple.
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Old 04-23-2008, 08:06 PM   #5
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Update:
I took the module out of the front door and checked the board inside the module itself and noticed that gm does not seal these modules up enough to stop condensation from getting inside.This could be the cause of premature failures.after using some electrical cleaner and letting dry for a day the problems of the rear windows and locks still did not work UNTILL.......today i get into the car put it in drive and whalla.... my rear doors locks and windows work again.Its been a month from the time i took it apart and cleaned to the time it suddenly worked.Maybe a prevention to this is to simply take the modules out and seal them up better than they already are?Also i put electrical grease on all the plugs and bare points of contact like the grounds and such.I hope this helps someone in the future.
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Old 05-04-2008, 11:48 AM   #6
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Finally resolved the issues with the rear doors.The modules were not the issue after all .I took the carpet out and traced every wire and found a faulty connection at the harness location under the driver seat.Its a bridge that connects two brown wires together.the bridge was corroded and dissentigrated and left no contact.the wires were also corroded in half.after splicing the wires back together my doors all work fine as well as the windows.also i get no more power drop on my guages when using the rear defrost and my oil pressure guage stoped fluxuating.I'm sure there are more of these bridge connectors other places in the car but this one seems to be the most prone to the water leeks that settle towards the back area carpet.
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Old 05-04-2008, 03:36 PM   #7
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Thanks for sharing the solution to your problem. It'* always nice when people come back with what wound up working so that others can benefit in the future.
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Old 04-05-2009, 12:06 AM   #8
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THANKS! Your solution solved my problem!

I just fixed the same problem you had. See this thread https://www.gmforum.com/t280062/

My driver'* side carpet is soaking wet, I pulled it out and took the loom off the wire harness under the driver'* seat, I could see the green corrosion even before I took the tape off the factory installed splice connector.

The pictures tell the whole story. I cut back the infected wires until they were clean and spliced in a new section of wire. Now all the door locks and windows work as they should.
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Old 04-05-2009, 01:59 AM   #9
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The only times I've seen corrosion like that is dissimilar metals in contact with moisture. I'm thinking copper and aluminum here.

Many years ago when houses were being wired with aluminum wire, they continued to use copper connection points in switches and wall outlets. The dissimilar metals causes galvanic corrosion. That coupled with the aluminum contracting and expanding against the copper created heat and sparks, and subsequent fires. Of course that was 110VAC...but the galvanic issues are persistent even with 12V.

Thanks for sharing this. Everyday is a learning day in here!
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Old 04-05-2009, 09:56 AM   #10
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Thanks for posting these great tech notes!
I'm the one who posted the Windows and Doors KO'ed (Big Tim) just BT for short.
I'm thinking this is probably my problem too.
Couple of questions, In the two posts each one pulls the carpet out. One method removes the seats carpet seats everything the other method does not.

1) Do I really need to pull the seats, console?? Sure is a lot of work and those retainer bolts for the seat are a hassle to get out. Think their corroded in place.

2) If I don't have to pull the seats, is there a trick to getting the carpet out and back in without screwing it up?

I'm ready to get after this thing but still need to drive the car after I'm done. LOL
Thanks a lot for the help!!
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