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Old 06-02-2006, 12:33 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Bob...with the thermostat being on the upper radiator hose path and this is the exit for coolant from the engine to radiator, the thermostat restricts the flow of coolant keeping the motor up to the temperature of the thermostat. If you remove the thermostat our cars (while moving or fans being on) have a cooling capacity well below 180-195 degrees.

Therefore if your thermostat was removed you should not be able to reach 180 degrees while moving or fans running. Sitting still is a whole other ball game.
Bill: I haven't removed the thermostat from my car, but I'll bet if i did, it would overheat, Coolant flow through the radiator is designed in with the thermostat in place.

One thing any drag racer could tell you is that if you remove the thermostat, you still need a restrictor about the size of the thermostat in the system. If you don't, coolant flow transit time through the radiator is too fast for the coolant to shed heat, and overheating results.

I'm tearing tnto my car soon, and have an old mechanical gauge in my toolbox. I may do an A/B test to determine if I'm wrong or not-but I don't think I am.
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Old 06-02-2006, 12:39 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Dillon
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Bob...with the thermostat being on the upper radiator hose path and this is the exit for coolant from the engine to radiator, the thermostat restricts the flow of coolant keeping the motor up to the temperature of the thermostat. If you remove the thermostat our cars (while moving or fans being on) have a cooling capacity well below 180-195 degrees.

Therefore if your thermostat was removed you should not be able to reach 180 degrees while moving or fans running. Sitting still is a whole other ball game.
Bill: I haven't removed the thermostat from my car, but I'll bet if i did, it would overheat, Coolant flow through the radiator is designed in with the thermostat in place.

One thing any drag racer could tell you is that if you remove the thermostat, you still need a restrictor about the size of the thermostat in the system. If you don't, coolant flow transit time through the radiator is too fast for the coolant to shed heat, and overheating results.

I'm tearing tnto my car soon, and have an old mechanical gauge in my toolbox. I may do an A/B test to determine if I'm wrong or not-but I don't think I am.
there'* no way in hell a car will over heat going down the road or with fans on with
the stat out!!!!!!!!!..i've done it many times it will barely heat up!!!
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Old 06-03-2006, 02:41 AM   #13
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Getting back on topic, Our cars are prone to upper and lower intake manifold failures.

By putting in a 180* stat you are avoiding x amount of heat. That is a good thing.

Do it x2.

Tim
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Old 06-03-2006, 10:00 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bonnevillemac

By putting in a 180* stat you are avoiding x amount of heat. That is a good thing.

Tim
I disagree. You're not reducing the temperature of the coolant.
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Old 06-03-2006, 12:05 PM   #15
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Correct, you are not reducing the temp of the coolant.

But If it only heats up to 180* that is 30* cooler than stock.

I still say go for it.


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Old 06-03-2006, 02:50 PM   #16
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This has been discussed before, you may want to search on it.

Detonation and knock result from very hot cyilnder temps. While it is true that operating temp of the motor is ideal at 200-210 this is for mileage and emissions only. By keeping the motor cooler (combination of cooler t-stat and either lowering fan points, installing a fan switch, or driving at speed resulting in a ram air effect over the radiator) you can make more power (at least with a boosted vehicle).

This has the advantage of allowing you to run more boost or timing and gain power. For an N/A car there is not much of a performance advantage but some believe that keeping the motor cooler will help against the upper plenum failures because the plastic does not become so brittle due to long exposure to higher heat.

Bob, it has been proven over and over for many years that a 180 (or 160) t-stat combined with methods to get air across the radiator WILL reduce coolant and motor temps and help combat knock resulting in more power.
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Old 06-03-2006, 02:53 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Dillon
REAL Pontiacs have rear wheel drive and a big ol' 455! However, my daily driver is a '99 SLE.
BTW, I think I drive a REAL Pontiac. Just so you know.
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Old 06-03-2006, 03:02 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Dillon
REAL Pontiacs have rear wheel drive and a big ol' 455! However, my daily driver is a '99 SLE.
BTW, I think I drive a REAL Pontiac. Just so you know.
How do you feel about the Buick engine?
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Old 06-03-2006, 07:39 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Dillon
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Dillon
REAL Pontiacs have rear wheel drive and a big ol' 455! However, my daily driver is a '99 SLE.
BTW, I think I drive a REAL Pontiac. Just so you know.
How do you feel about the Buick engine?
It gets me into buick events, and the model gets me into pontiac events. The combo is great for getting to tracks and the car has a great ride with lots of power so I like it just fine
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Old 06-03-2006, 07:43 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Dillon
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Dillon
REAL Pontiacs have rear wheel drive and a big ol' 455! However, my daily driver is a '99 SLE.
BTW, I think I drive a REAL Pontiac. Just so you know.
How do you feel about the Buick engine?
It gets me into buick events, and the model gets me into pontiac events. The combo is great for getting to tracks and the car has a great ride with lots of power so I like it just fine
Glad to hear it. Actually, my tagline, which seems to offend you, refers to Pontiacs powered by the traditional Pontiac V-8, manufactured 1955-79.
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