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Old 10-26-2011, 11:07 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archon View Post
You have to remove the side case cover first...

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Install the engine support fixture.
3. Remove the air intake duct.
4. Remove the shift cable and bracket at the transaxle.
5. Remove the accelerator and cruise control cables from the retainer on the left strut tower.
6. Unbolt but do not remove the ABS modulator.
7. Raise the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
8. Remove the left front tire and wheel assembly.
9. Remove the inner splash shield.
10. Remove the tie rod end from the knuckle assembly. Refer to Tie Rod End Replacement - Outer in Steering and Suspension.
11. Remove the stabilizer shaft link from the lower control arm. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement in Steering and Suspension.
12. Remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle. Refer to Lower Ball Joint Replacement in Steering and Suspension.
13. Remove the drive axle from the transmission and support axle. Refer to Wheel Drive Shafts Replacement.
14. Remove the pinch bolt from the steering gear intermediate shaft at steering column. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement in Steering and Suspension. Caution: Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion steering gear stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear or to the intermediate shaft. This damage may cause loss of steering control, which could result in an accident and possible personal injury.
15. Remove the intermediate shaft from the steering gear. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement in Steering and Suspension.
16. Remove the three frame-to-body bolts on the left side.
17. Loosen but do not remove the bolts on the right side.
18. Remove the transaxle oil cooler hoses at the case. Refer to Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Hose Replacement.
19. Lower the vehicle and loosen the engine support fixture adapters until adequate clearance is available at the case side cover to frame rail area.
20. Raise the vehicle.
21. Remove the case side cover bolts.
22. Remove the case side cover (53).
23. Clean the case and side cover gasket surfaces.

Then...

# Disconnect the transaxle wiring harness.
# Remove the pressure control solenoid
1. Install the pressure control solenoid (322).
2. Connect the transaxle wiring harness.
3. Install the case side cover. Refer to Case Side Cover Replacement.

1. Inspect the case side cover for the following conditions:

o Damaged or porous gasket sealing surfaces
o Damaged or porous casting surfaces
o Damaged or stripped bolt holes

2. Install the new gaskets (54 and 59) on the case (53).
3. Install the case side cover.
: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.

4. Install the new side cover bolts (56) and one side cover to case stud (5 in the locations shown. These bolts will properly locate the case side cover to the case.
5. Install the remaining bolts:

o Nine case side cover bolts (56)
o Four side cover torx bolts (57)
o Four side cover to case stud bolts (58
o Tighten the side cover bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.) .

6. Install the transaxle oil cooler hoses to the transmission. Refer to Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Hose Replacement.
7. Raise the transmission and frame using a transmission jack so that the frame bolts can be installed.
8. Install the three frame-to-body bolts and tight the right side bolts.
9. Remove the transmission jack.
10. Install the intermediate shaft to the steering gear and the pinch bolt at the intermediate shaft. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement in Steering and Suspension.
11. Install the drive axle to the transmission. Refer to Wheel Drive Shafts Replacement.
12. Install the ball joint to the steering knuckle. Refer to Lower Ball Joint Replacement in Steering and Suspension.
13. Install the stabilizer shaft link to the lower control arm. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement in Steering and Suspension.
14. Install the tie rod end to the knuckle. Refer to Tie Rod End Replacement - Outer in Steering and Suspension.
15. Install the inner splash shield.
16. Install the left front tire and wheel assembly.
17. Lower the vehicle.
18. Remove the J 28467-360.
19. Install the shift cable and bracket at the transaxle.
20. Install the accelerator and cruise control cables from the retainer on the left strut tower.
21. Install the ABS modulator.
22. Install the air intake duct. Refer to Air Cleaner Intake Duct Replacement in Powertrain Management.
23. Connect the negative battery cable.
24. Check the fluid level. Refer to Fluid Capacity Specifications
25. Inspect for leaks.
26. Check front end alignment.

GM labor time 5.3 hours

The TSB that explains the problem...

A/T - 4T65E Harsh Shifts/Shudders/Slips/DTC'* Set

File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle

Bulletin No.: 0O-07-30-002B

Date: July, 2002

TECHNICAL
Subject:
Slips, Harsh Upshift or Garage Shifts, Launch Shudders, Flares, Erratic Shifts and Intermittent Concerns, DTC P1811 or P0748 Set (Replace Pressure Control Solenoid Valve Assembly)
Greetings...new here.
1998 Intrigue
6 cyl
PS/PB
AC
4T65E tranny

In attempting to obtain access to transmission PCS on the aforementioned vehicle, I have progressed as far as loosening tranny side cover housing. However, I cannot remove the side cover out of the way to access the PCS and electrical connector from the top, or bottom d/t AC system, Lft brake line, and of course the infamous left subframe side rail. I've lowered the left subframe with the tranny "up", I've raised the subframe with the tranny "down" and no luck. I'm thinking I need to drop entire subframe, then re-establish subframe bolts (all while working in my driveway). Any ideas folks or pictures of the actual removal? Thank you.
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Old 10-26-2011, 11:13 AM   #12
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Remove the whole sub frame, wire up the steering rack to the exhaust to hold it in place, make sure everything is off, piping and wires. Drop it and pull out of the way. Trans can then be lowered enough to remove side pan.
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Old 10-26-2011, 11:34 AM   #13
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Why are you wiring the steering to the exhaust...which you are then lowering? If you want to support the steering, hook it to the edge of the firewall at the top or the brake booster. Those items won't be pulled down with the weight of the engine/trans.
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Old 10-26-2011, 11:58 AM   #14
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Good point, the last several I've done was removing the trans keeping the engine in place.
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Old 10-26-2011, 08:48 PM   #15
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Thank you to all that have lent their knowledge. As usual, there are a few questions that come up when reading the assistance offered...like now. Question folks: After disconnecting the tranny cooling lines & the vacuum hose to brake booster...It appears that I must also disconnect the passenger tie rod end also b/f lowering everything. Might this be correct ? I must admit, although the steering sector bolt has been removed and the steering wheel shaft has been adaquately separated from the rack, I am unaware of any exhaust issues, believing that the pipes will descend with the motor/tranny/subframe. Am I missing something? Hey...thanks again...I'm learning my way around tranny issues with this type of help. Regards.
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Old 10-26-2011, 09:01 PM   #16
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Removing the sub frame isn't that hard. Support the car off the sub frame. Support the engine from above. I use a 4x4 and a chain. Pop the lower ball joints on the control arms, and steering rack. Make sure all wires are unhooked, like wheel spin sensors. The power steering lines may also be bolted to the sub frame. You also have motor and trans mounts, and the trans cooler lines. I use a jack to then hold the sub frame and remove the bolts. Then lower it, make sure you didn't miss anything. Lower some more, double check nothing was missed. Then pull it out of the way.
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Old 10-27-2011, 07:21 AM   #17
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to clarify one thing Dan said. The steering rack.. there are two 18mm bolts with 18mm nuts. Remove them. Wiggle the rack up and off the subframe. Don't pop the tie rods or undo any of that.

Also feel your way around the subframe before you lower it. Make sure you get all electrical and lines that are attached.

I jack and support the car at the drip edge
drain the trans fluid
Remove air box accordian tube
Remove tires
Undo ps rack bolts
Pop balljoints
Check for lines/electrical on subframe
Support motor from above
Undo the motor mounts were htey connect to the subframe
Lower subframe bolts and subframe
Remove axle nut on driver side and axle (I find unbolting the brake lines in the wheel wells helps the struts have more range of movement.
Then lower the drivers end of the drivetrain and remove the side cover bolts and cover.
Change soleniod.

What I don't do:
Do not remove brakes
Do not remove calipers
Do not drain coolant
Do not remove

All the hoses, exhaust and electrical should have enough give to lower the amount you need to.

One last tip. The lower 4 bolts on the trans cover are torx. I put the socket in them and give them a whack with a hammer to break the aluminum/steel bond that forms. Being shallow headed torx..This usually frees them up and doesn't strip them out.
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Old 10-27-2011, 07:25 AM   #18
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Greetings: Dan, you stated

"Removing the sub frame isn't that hard. Support the car off the sub frame. Support the engine from above. I use a 4x4 and a chain. Pop the lower ball joints on the control arms, and steering rack. Make sure all wires are unhooked, like wheel spin sensors. The power steering lines may also be bolted to the sub frame. You also have motor and trans mounts, and the trans cooler lines. I use a jack to then hold the sub frame and remove the bolts. Then lower it, make sure you didn't miss anything. Lower some more, double check nothing was missed. Then pull it out of the way".

However, I would like to ask........would it not be easier to drop the motor and tranny together with the subframe, all as one unit, just enough to remove the tranny side cover instead of dropping JUST the subframe and hanging everything from a 4 x 4 & chain?

I can drop everything together, however, as I asked previously .............

" It appears that I must also disconnect the passenger tie rod end also b/f lowering everything. Might this be correct ?" and....." I am unaware of any exhaust issues, believing that the pipes will descend with the motor/tranny/subframe. Am I missing something?"

So, can I drop both the tranny/eng and subframe together, and remove the cover?..Y/N. 1) is this "do-able" ? Y/N 2) will I have any exhaust issues Y/N, and if so, what might they be ? 3) will the passenger tie rod need to be separated ? Y/N 4) will I have enough travel from the McPherson struts to accomplish the descent downwards of the motor/tranny combo (or will I have to disconnect them from the towers ? Y/N. Thank you
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Old 10-27-2011, 08:14 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37 View Post
to clarify one thing Dan said. The steering rack.. there are two 18mm bolts with 18mm nuts. Remove them. Wiggle the rack up and off the subframe. Don't pop the tie rods or undo any of that.

Huh? Do I really need to do this if dropping motor/subframe and tranny together, or maybe the remaining passngr. side ? Please advise.
Also feel your way around the subframe before you lower it. Make sure you get all electrical and lines that are attached.

I jack and support the car at the drip edge -------.......................Was previously done.
drain the trans fluidI]-------Was previously done[/I].
Remove air box accordian tubeI]-------Was previously done[/I].
Remove tires
Undo ps rack bolts
Pop balljoints........................................ .............................................left only is done
Check for lines/electrical on subframe
Support motor from above............................................. .....again, is this necessary
or can I proceed as stated?

Undo the motor mounts were they connect to the subframe................Was prev done.
Lower subframe bolts and subframe.................have left out, right loose.Please see my
post as to remaining questions.thanks.

Remove axle nut on driver side and axle (I find unbolting the brake lines in the wheel wells helps the struts have more range of movement................................prev done w/o brake
line disconnect.


Then lower the drivers end of the drivetrain and remove the side cover bolts and cover.
Change soleniod...........please refer to my post

What I don't do:...................................I've done none of these..not necessary.
Do not remove brakes
Do not remove calipers
Do not drain coolant
Do not remove

All the hoses, exhaust and electrical should have enough give to lower the amount you need to. Ok on the exhaust..one down, 3 questions to go.thank you.
One last tip. The lower 4 bolts on the trans cover are torx. I put the socket in them and give them a whack with a hammer to break the aluminum/steel bond that forms. Being shallow headed torx..This usually frees them up and doesn't strip them out.
...........TORX bolts are out, all, other cover bolts out

So folks, per my post:...................can I drop both the tranny/eng and subframe together, and remove the cover?..Y/N.
1) is this "do-able" ? Y/N

2) will I have any exhaust issues Y/N, and if so, what might they be ? Appears to BE Answered. thank you.

3) will the passenger tie rod need to be separated ? (to drop everything as stated)Y/N

4) will I have enough travel from the McPherson struts to accomplish the descent downwards of the motor/tranny combo (or will I have to disconnect them from the towers ? Y/N. Thank you
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:24 AM   #20
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1. I like to lower the driverside more than the passenger..but yes.. you can lower enough (4-6 inches) to get the cover to wiggle off.

2. I never have touched it or had an issue.

3. I never seperate any tie rods

4. The way I do it..the balljoint moves and the strut is untouched. However you can undo the bolts on top of the strut to the tower and lower that way w/o any alignment issues.
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