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Old 06-22-2003, 11:16 PM   #1
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Default Plug Wire Boots Seized ??

Damn! Those original plug wire boots are tightly stuck on the spark plugs.
I tried a few times to pull them off, even tried twisting them but they won't move.
I have shelved the Taylor wires for now because the original wires only have 20,000 km on them and should last for a little while longer, but I would like to inspect the plugs and wire resistance.
Is there a trick someone might teach me?
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Old 06-22-2003, 11:56 PM   #2
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I twist to the left, then twist to the right, and then pull straight out. Try to limit the angle as much as possible. There is a spark plug boot puller tool available to help.
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Old 06-23-2003, 01:41 AM   #3
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The stock wires are a PITA to get off, but the earlier you get them off the better they will be. Just pull. No trick. If you pull hard enough, for long enough, they will come off. A hint though, if you want to do the rear plugs, get underneath the car, it is much easier. While you have the plugs and wires off put in new plugs and wires. New wires will come off very easy, the stock ones are just stupid. When we removed the stock wires from the SSEi it has 65,000 miles on it. It took us 5 hours, and we can change them in the GTP in 20 minutes. The wires wouldn't come off, but you just pull and eventually they come off. We put in 1 range colder AC-Delco'* and taylor wires and now it takes 20 minutes to change them. My dad did cut his hand open on a bracket doing the rear plugs though, and had to get like 6 or 8 stiches, just watch out for brackets. And, 3 of the wires were ruined once we got them off. With the significantly lower miles you have on yours I don't think it will be a problem, but it may be, and I do not recommend under any circumstances to put your stock wires back on if you have taylors on the shelf, or you will have to go through it all over again.
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Old 06-23-2003, 01:48 AM   #4
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Thanks for the tips dbtk2.
What did you do for looms since the stock ones don't look like they are big enough for the larger wire diameter.?
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Old 06-23-2003, 02:01 AM   #5
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The taylor wires fit fine in the stock looms, they are just a little tight.
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Old 06-23-2003, 02:10 PM   #6
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Yes they are a big PITA!!! I just replaced the ones on my 00 boy the back ones were stuck really good it has 42k on it. I found no easy way of getting to the back ones. I can tell you my forearm is bruised to hell from pushing up agianst the bracket the the vanity cover locks under.
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Old 08-08-2003, 11:51 AM   #7
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Speaking of the Taylor Wires, I just finished getting mine installed and the heat shields from the original wires are to small to fit on the taylors. I asked around and the thickness of the wires plus being silicon seemed sufficient to run without the heat shields. I've been running them for about 3 days now and I notice a slight smell off the engine almost like wire burning. Is this because they are new? Anyone else notice this? Are you running with heat shields?
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Old 08-08-2003, 12:00 PM   #8
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Default Plug wires seized

I am running the heat shields on mine. I also think they provide some RF sheilding. I am using Accel custom fit wires.
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Old 08-09-2003, 01:23 AM   #9
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You can get Taylor boot protectors part number 2523

Boot removal tool is 43392

I would protect them.

I talked to Taylor about this and they said if the stock units donít work either use their flexible boots part 2523 or their heat shield boots 2572 (short) or 2573 (long). They are on the Taylor box.

Also make sure the wires are in the right place so they do not touch or get too close to the rear exhaust manifold. There are other protectors that will help with this as well. They are cheap and can be bought at any auto parts store.

This will give you the longest life out of your wires.

Ty
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Old 08-10-2003, 02:08 AM   #10
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Quote:
New wires will come off very easy, the stock ones are just stupid
There is nothing wrong with a good set of Delco wires. There are probably 100 million sets in use right now.

To get them off, first you do want to twist them so that the boot is not locked onto the porcelain part of the plug. But when you pull on the boot to get it off, in some cases it actually grips the plug tighter. Think of it as one of those kid'* chinese finger traps. In this case what you need to do is pull the boot from the end (the open end). There is a small tool you can get that has a small hook that will pull the boot off from the end. Sometimes you can use the tool while pulling the main part of the boot with your other hand. A tool could also be made from a stiff piece of wire. You will be surprised how easy they come off when you do this.

On those rear plugs, sometimes you can't get a tool in there. Wrap a rag around your hand or use a heavy glove because you will hurt yourself if you don't. Trying from underneath the car is always worth a shot. Once in a while you can use a screwdriver as a lever to help get them off. But if you puncture the boot, you should replace the wire.

By the way the metal heat shields won't help with interference, the only way you could suppress rf from the wires is to shield every wire and terminate the shield at one or both ends.
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