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Old 01-03-2004, 02:33 AM   #1
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Default Pics of window regulator

My buddy Dan dropped me off a new years gift today, a new rear regulator!
The old one is one top (you can see the cable loop?)
The new on the bottom....notice the motors are diff?


Dan showed me where they get 'bunged up' causing the cable to break just after the top of the cam. Keeping this area and track well lubed should help.
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Old 01-03-2004, 10:09 AM   #2
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Great info for a plagueing problem....I had a scare a few days ago when my back window wouldnt go down. Would have been the 4th window in 6 months between my 2 cars to go out. All of a sudden it started working again, I think it was just stuck or something.
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Old 01-03-2004, 01:00 PM   #3
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I always have the rear windows locked out so they don't ever open.
Looks like I may be in for a non warranteed surprise is a couple of years, if I decide to use them.
How much is replacement cost?
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Old 01-07-2004, 06:10 PM   #4
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I replaced both rear regulators/ motors so far on my 2000 SSEi. I knew that there had to be a design flaw! The only good news is that I found the second one at a reasonable price through this site. At over $250 each, GM is making a killing on these things.
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Old 09-20-2004, 09:37 PM   #5
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When I removed the old regulator, not surprisingly it looked just like the picture posted here. It broke in the same spot, and looked the same way. What I noticed is that there is a small hexagonal stop in the cable that was firmly wedged under that plastic finger that shows at the top. Could this be part of the problem, that it keeps getting caught there and puts extra stress on the cable until it finally breaks? Considering that as a possibility, what if the window was not seated as far down into the new regulator, maybe a quarter inch or so from resting on the bottom. That would seem to keep that hexagonal stop, connector, or whatever it is from getting jammed under that finger. Just a thougt. Of course, it would probably take some time fo find out if it worked or not.
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Old 09-22-2004, 10:57 AM   #6
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PDad...

Looks like a little nylon bearing block...

Can the unit be further dissembled and that part
extracted and replaced....

Looks like a little mill work if one could get to it...

So the nylon part breaks then the added stress on
the cam and cable cause the cable to break.....?

Thats an aweful lot of money!
Be nice to find a way to make repair on the cheap ...
got lots of poly and nylon stock.... hint *hint*

Thoughts?
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Old 09-22-2004, 11:28 PM   #7
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Mine just broke today, Wifey said it was down a little, tried putting it up. Sounds crunchy! If its $200-$300, um I'll be c clamping until further notice. What a car but thats ridiculous!. I just got through doing the intermediate shaft lube!!
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Old 10-07-2004, 09:06 PM   #8
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Mine just broke today as well...not happy.
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Old 10-07-2004, 09:11 PM   #9
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Most of the ones I've seen break on GM cars (and I sell these things all day long at work) usually have the lill fitting where the plastic connection is into the motor assembly that cracks and then it binds up when in use. Pretty much if you even slam GM car doors too hard, the regualtors break....Not really a flaw but just too damned fragile.
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Old 10-12-2004, 07:57 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LakevilleSSEi
....Not really a flaw but just too damned fragile.
No disrespect intended, but if they designed it that way, I'd say it was flawed thinking. My left rear just started working again Saturday morning. My son just opened the window. Didn't even notice at first. But I am now paranoid that it'* going to drop, probably while its parked at the train station while I am at work.

I swear, for the last 6 months or so, I have really lost interest in this car. What I once loved has turned out to lack durability.
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