Decreased weight is a minor effect, drilling is primarily for cooling. But extreme heat up and cooldown cycles shorten the life. They're designed to last for one race and then toss them.

Ever seen the under-car cameras during a NASCAR race? Particularly on the short tracks like Martinsville and Bristol? It'* spooky.

The rotors get RED hot twice per lap. Over and over again. They explode when they get too hot.

Paul'* reply above is right on the money. If it'* done RIGHT it can be safe for street use. But the vast majority are not RIGHT for street use. If you can afford them, they're bad.

2 years on stock rotors and monroe cermanic pads, stops great and no brake dut

And I agree if drilled or slotted, its going to run $1k or more for quality.

prolly not because im betting that GM designed the rotors correctly

2000 SSE? I want one.

Didnt they re-introduce the supercharger option on the 2000 SSEs that stoped in 93?

No there is no 2000 sse only se....sle....ssei

For those that didn't really check out my link http://www.raceshopper.com/sp_rotors.shtml
Scroll down and read how there drilled rotors are made with a radius corner chamfer, so are the slotted ones. Also the SP rotors come zinc plated and washed, nickle plating is also available.

Taylor, I like the plated drilled and slotted version over the drilled only SP rotor.
Looks like a good design and a reasonable price.

most the time you are only going to see cracking in race conditions. on the street if you are geting yur brakes that hot then i would suggest slowing down considerably beforey ou kill someone. i want new rotors because the stock ones have warped and it is exagerated by my 20" wheels when i hit the brake. on the street drilled rotors are for looks and looks only. i will be getting the drilled ones!!!