Ok, so maybe it's not the Torque converter - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 01-17-2007, 12:56 PM   #11
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I'm with you on that bud! FWIW, pulling the seat, and just cleaning the grounding strap area (the only place I found a problem) won't take too long....when it warms a touch.
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Old 01-17-2007, 11:56 PM   #12
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Mine does that too! When the TC is locked, it also doesn't like to unlock, I've pretty much gotta let of the gas, then get back on it. The grounding strap wouldn't have something to do with that too, would it?
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Old 01-18-2007, 12:06 AM   #13
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Shadd, you should post your mods in your sig.

Do you have an INTENSE PCM

I think you do, so it should have adjusted this a bit but ya even with mine I have to let off the accelerator briefly to get it to disengage. It'* a fuel economy interlock I think.
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Old 01-21-2007, 05:10 PM   #14
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I got the heater out and worked on that ground connection from the battery to the frame and I can see why it may lead to problems, the body is painted, the bolt looks just like an anodized bolt and not stainless and it was showing some surface rust on the threads.

So I cleaned all that up and sanded the ground lug, the inside of the bolt head and the body surface under the lug and then covered it in No-OX. I have to go to work tonight so we'll see how it goes.
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Old 01-25-2007, 07:55 PM   #15
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Well I cleaned the negative battery cable as suggested with no change, the vehicle is still surging.

How about the intake air temp sensor in the rubber boot between the air box and the throttle body? Can that cause an issue if it'* bad? What do I get if I unplug it?
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Old 01-25-2007, 10:50 PM   #16
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Darn, I was really hoping that yours would be fixed by cleaning up that ground. You've already taken care of the most common ones that would cause the problem. Looks like it'* time to go down the list that Custom 88 provided, skipping over those that you've already done. The IAT wouldn't be high on my list of suspects. I'm not sure if disconnecting it would go to a default setting, or if it would just read full cold...-40*F. It will set a code, though.

Quote:
* Spark plugs - Inspect for cracks, high resistance or a broken insulator.
* Plug wires - Look in each end. If there is red dust (ozone) or a black substance (carbon) present, then the wires are bad. Also look for a white discoloration of the wire. This indicates arcing during hard acceleration.
* Coil - Look for a black discoloration on the bottom of the coil. This indicates arcing while the engine is misfiring.
* Fuel injector - The filter may be plugged.
* Vacuum leak - The engine will not get a correct amount of fuel. The mixture may run rich or lean depending on where the leak occurs.
* EGR valve - The valve may let in too much or too little unburnable exhaust gas and could cause the engine to run rich or lean.
* MAP/MAF sensor - Like a vacuum leak, the engine will not get the correct amount of fuel for proper engine operation.
* Carbon on the intake valves - Carbon restricts the proper flow of air/fuel mixture into the cylinders.
* Flat cam - Valves do not open enough to let the proper fuel/air mixture into the cylinders.
* Oxygen sensor - This sensor may command the engine too rich or too lean for too long.
* Fuel pressure - This may be too low.
* Engine mounts - Vibration of the mounts can be multiplied by TCC engagement.
* Axle joints - Check for vibration.
* TP Sensor - The TCC apply and release depends on the TP Sensor in many engines. If the TP Sensor is out of specification, TCC may remain applied during initial engine loading.
* Cylinder balance - Bad piston rings or poorly sealing valves can cause low power in a cylinder.
* Fuel contamination - This causes poor engine performance.
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Old 01-26-2007, 07:10 AM   #17
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Spark Plugs - Replaced
Plug Wires - Replaced
Coil - Will inspect
Fuel Injector - Will inspect
Vacuum Leak - inspected and fix one suspect, rest look good.
EGR valve - Replaced
Carbon on the intake valves - I have been using injector cleaner for two tanks fulls now.
Flat cam - ? will research
Oxygen sensor - Replaced both about 20k ago.
Fuel pressure - Measured in low 40'*
Engine mounts - Inspected, look good.
Axle joints - Will inspect.
TP Sensor - Will inspect / replace.
Cylinder balance - will remove and inspect.
Fuel contamination - Mobil 93 Octane only.


Quote:
* Spark plugs - Inspect for cracks, high resistance or a broken insulator.
* Plug wires - Look in each end. If there is red dust (ozone) or a black substance (carbon) present, then the wires are bad. Also look for a white discoloration of the wire. This indicates arcing during hard acceleration.
* Coil - Look for a black discoloration on the bottom of the coil. This indicates arcing while the engine is misfiring.
* Fuel injector - The filter may be plugged.
* Vacuum leak - The engine will not get a correct amount of fuel. The mixture may run rich or lean depending on where the leak occurs.
* EGR valve - The valve may let in too much or too little unburnable exhaust gas and could cause the engine to run rich or lean.
* MAP/MAF sensor - Like a vacuum leak, the engine will not get the correct amount of fuel for proper engine operation.
* Carbon on the intake valves - Carbon restricts the proper flow of air/fuel mixture into the cylinders.
* Flat cam - Valves do not open enough to let the proper fuel/air mixture into the cylinders.
* Oxygen sensor - This sensor may command the engine too rich or too lean for too long.
* Fuel pressure - This may be too low.
* Engine mounts - Vibration of the mounts can be multiplied by TCC engagement.
* Axle joints - Check for vibration.
* TP Sensor - The TCC apply and release depends on the TP Sensor in many engines. If the TP Sensor is out of specification, TCC may remain applied during initial engine loading.
* Cylinder balance - Bad piston rings or poorly sealing valves can cause low power in a cylinder.
* Fuel contamination - This causes poor engine performance.
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