I am going into a realm of frustation I have not been in before. Today I stopped at the bank hit the button to roll the window down and....nothing. I hear the click of the ground switching but no down. I have done a bit of trouble shooting on this throughout the day at work and here is what I came up with.

1. No windows up or down at all from the driver switch pod.

2. No windows up or down at the individual windows (the switches for the passenger window or the two back window).

3. I have repaired both back windows per Archons post.

4. I have replaced the fuses in the rear fuse box.

5. I have replaced the switch pod.

6. I have power mirrors in the driver door.

This is so very frustating, before I could narrow it down to the regulators because only the suspect window would have now action. Anyone have any ideas.

There are different syptoms this time around and it throws me for a loop.

Thanks,

Tim

Sorry Tim. I'm not certain what the problem is that you're experiencing. Are none of the windows working, or just the drivers window not working?

Nope none of the window are,


Tim

Tim, the 30A breaker (ckt. bkr 57) in the rear fuse block supplies power for all 4 window drive motors. You mentioned that you checked fuses only. Check the breaker is re-set/closed in.

ok I 'll give that a try. Is the circuit breaker something I can pick up at Autozone or will I have to go to a dealer?


Thanks guys,

Tim

The circuit breaker should reset itself, once the problem that tripped it is corrected. If it continually trips, you may have a short somewhere.

If it is defective, autozone and other auto parts stores should have it. Also, before you buy one, check the amperage. Mark'* documnetation shows 30 A. Mine shows 40. I don' t know which one is correct. Check and see what is in your car.

Send me a PM with your email address if you want a wiring diagram for the power windows.

Wiring diagram has been sent. I'd start in the drivers door & unplug the wiring from the module. There are 3 orange wires going to the driver'* module. Two of these terminals A & A8 should have + 12 volts while key is on. If power is good at the orange wires check for good grounds at terminal B5 (Blk/Wht wire) & terminal D (Blk wire).

While the driver'* module is unplugged see if the passenger window will work via the switch on that door.

Ted, not sure if that would be a valid test as the passenger door module sends a request to the driver door module to move the passenger window via serial bus even when it is intended to operate the passenger door window locally from the passenger door window control switch. I know it sounds crazy, that'* from the FSM. Also there are 3 connectors on the DDM, C1, C2, C3. I wonder if the DDM is powered up from the 10A fuse in the rear fuse block. That power comes in on C1 A8 (ORN), power to operate the driver door window drive motor comes in on C3 A (ORN) from the 30A PWR WDO bkr. in the rear fuse block. DDM ground is C1 B5 (BLK/WHT), and C3 D (BLK), both grounds terminate at G200 located fwd area of driver floor board under trim panel.

Mark - I just wanted him to try that for future reference. I'm hoping it'* just the grounds. You've got me wondering if he should check that ground buss before taking the door panel off. We've seen plenty of problems there on the previous models. If the power & grounds check out I was going to recommend changing the driver door module & driver door switches. Is there any way to narrow it down to one of those two?