Hey gang I was getting the tie rod checked today and I also found out I have another problem. I am needing a new motor mount. The dude took me outside and had the hood up. He told me to watch the engine when he shifted into gear. The motor moved bad. I checked at Autozone and they gave me a list of mounts that it could be. you all know the drill. is there any way to tell which one it is I need?? I have read posts in Search and found out it could be a tranny mount. Is there any particular mount that fails most often??

Thanks, guys

Tim

Yes it is a part that fails more times than not and many have converted to the solid mount mod, with no side effects for $5.00 as compared to the near $80.00 replacement.

Search for hockey puck mod and Harofreak00 as the author.

Edit -- Here i was feeling nice.....http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...949&highlight=

I agree its most likely the tranny mount. I had a similar problem when I found my tranny mount was cracked in two. All of the mounts will eventually need replacement and many here have used the hockey puck replacement instead of the stock fluid mount. Unfortunately, I had already replaced mine with stock before I knew the hockey puck mount even existed.

There ARE side effects! Not everyone seems to notice them although some do.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...hlight=#915985

You WILL get more vibration transmitted to the body. I personally don't want to put up with it but others don't seem to be bothered. I drove my car for fifteen minutes with the solid mount and promptly put the bad mount back in and ordered a new OEM mount.

Also the hockey puck mount costs $15 - $20.

FYI - I got a new OEM mount from GM Parts Direct:

Part #: 25731375
Unit Price: $64.19
Quantity: 1
Ext.Price: $64.19
================================================== ================
SUB TOTAL: $64.19
SHIPPING: $14.12
TOTAL: $ 78.30

Let me stress... a majority... would not choose to go back to the stock mount when comparing to the solid motor mount. Many have chose to switch and like it, the vibrations felt can be good for some and bad for others... all decided on a basis of personal opinion. Plus, the lack of engine movement could be beneficial because it puts less stress upon the gas lines, exhaust, etc.

This could be a cheap alternative that is beneficial mechanically and financially. I think most do not spend over $20 on the mount compared to a $64.00

The best way to check the various mounts is to watch them while a friend puts the car in forward and reverse with a little throttle.

In drive..the front trans mount will most likely lift as the bad mount.
In reverse, the back of the motor would lift if the rear trans mount is bad.
There is another mount under the harmonic balancer on the passenger side (no experience with a bad one)

There are three alternatives that I am aware of:
New factory mount
Hockey puck replacement
The newest..I dunno what he calls it.. but it'* something the person works with and has recently suggested. If you search on vibration and motor mount you should find it.

My solid hockey puck mount cost $8 and change.

Immediately I noticed something different. And I actually drove Karl'* car after we did his. Without driving his car before and knowing how his car rides, I felt a vibration, mistook it for something with the tranny, but figured it was the mount. Afterall, the mount is bolted to the trans.

Sure enough, I did my mount and drove home to notice this VERY apparent "buzzy" vibration in OD. I was NOT crazy about it, but honestly, the next day it did not bother me at all. It'* been a couple weeks now and I don't even think about it. I just know that when the TCC engages and the rpms drop to 1500-1800, I get a slight vibration. It'* a nice confirmation the trans is working as it should too.

If you do the solid motor mount, I'd suggest being patient and giving it some time. Right away it will be a change from the stock feel, but you may just get used to it. I drove it for 15 minutes or so and thought about changing the mount back. But it'* not a big deal anymore. And as stated, you're not stressing the exhaust and other parts as you would with the stock mount. My stock mount wasn't cracked but ask Bill, Karl, or Pat....the engine moved A LOT.

X2... Exactly what I have been trying to say

As I said;
At least now we have the WHOLE story and people can make an informed decision.

By the way, where did you find three hockey pucks and hardware for only $8 :?:

I sent mine to Karl for the price of postage ($7.50), but I ate the difference.

all you need is an old tire, a bolt, nut, washer and a 2 1/2"hole saw.
i made two mounts with wafers cut out of the sidewall of an old tire
cost $0 (Tim had the bolt, washer and nut) i had the hole saw.
he has over 40,000 miles with out any problems on his, i have over 130,000 on my mount(not made the same).
the distance between the top of the BOTTOM cross member and the bottom of the TOP motor mount bracket
is 3 5/8" that is how high your new mount should be when it is tight.

ROD
p.*. some people got a vibration if they did not get the height of the new mount right(to high or to low).