Well, I've been playing with the install for the ZZP hi speed fan switch now for a few days and am getting totally frustrated.
With help from PontiacDad, I was finally able to find dash power for the switch and the two green and blue wires that go to the fan relays.
When I connected the wires, the instructions say to then cut the wires in between each of the two connections, which I did.
Now the fans don't work at all.
I'm just about ready to heave it and never buy anything again that has been designed for the GTP.
......I hate having to make any kind of repair connections. Now I will need 4 to repair the two cut wires.

I just don't understand why it doesn't work.
I know the wires are the correct ones because I rang them out with an ohm meter and I have power and ground. :?

I did it to my 97 and it works great. I don't know what the differences might be from the 97 to yours though. :?
The switch housing is the ground for the switch and where I mounted my switch wasn't a good ground. I had to add a ground to the housing for mine to work.

That'* something I haven't tied yet. Thanks for the tip. Maybe that ground to the lower drivers side under the steering wheel cover retaining screw is not very good. It reads OK on my ohm meter though. :?

Great news!
It works. I almost gave up and ripped it out but perservered.

What was the finall issue? was it the dash ground?

I really don't know. Didn't really change anything. I unwrapped the electrical tape from my fusebox connections and was preparing to re-solder the original connections. Did some more ohm meter tests, then said to myself....what the hell, let'* just fire it up and see what happens....so I started the engine and let it idle for 10 minutes.
Voila, it then started working.
I had already run the switch plate ground separately to a dash ground so that wasn't the problem.

BTW I mounted the switch semi-hidden on the right side lower dash valance under the steering wheel. You have to know where it is to find it because it isn't visible unless you crouch down and look. I like it.

I won't get really tested until this weather clears up.

Thanks again for all your help.

This site is a great confidence booster and a wealth of knowledge and product leads.

I'm glad you finally got it working...you seemed a little frusterated for a while there. So is the wiring the same under the hood as a GTP and just finding a power lead under the dash was hard, or what?

Shawn

The toughest part was opening up the fuse box and locating the correct wires. There are duplicate colors and the bottom of the fuse box is different than the GTP.
Sure helped to have a service manual with all the right wiring diagrams.
The snap connections were easy but I would recomment soldering all connections.

I'm still a little puzzled though. The switch connects to a 12 volt power source. I used the cigar lighter which is on the 10 minute key off circuit. Even when there is no power after more than 10 minutes, the fans can still be turned on. :?

The capability exists to reconfigure the cigar lighter to be hot at all times, by shifting the supply fuse. This essentially disables the ten minute timed "off" delay for the lighter. Is it possible that your lighter is configured to be hot at all times?

I did an install over the weekend (Angel eye driving lights and neons) and I noticed that most, if not all of the fuses in the rear fuse box (under the back seat) continued to have power even after the 10 minutes! Weird eh?

I was going to buy and install the switch too, but I am going to hold out for the Hypertech programmer, it changes the parameters for when the fans come on/off. I heard that you can cause some kind of "warping" if there is a big gap between when your thermostat opens/closes and when the fans come on/off and I did'nt want to screw anything up. Can anyone substantiate this?