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Old 09-05-2006, 10:17 PM   #11
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It is not one continuous cable, but rather two separate ones. One cable comes off the spool slightly to the side, through a cable covering, along a cable guide on the top of the regulator and attaches to the top part of the sled. The other cable comes off the spool pretty much straight up and attaches to the bottom of the sled.

The bottom cable often is at least tangled. it can usually still be used, as the pressure put on it will keep it straight once everything is put back together.
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Old 09-06-2006, 07:48 PM   #12
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Not to pick on anyone but you can get the entire assy. from the dealership for around $65. I had to replace both rears and got sick and tired of messing around so I called the dealership and they had them in stock.
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Old 09-06-2006, 07:54 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LJJCS_AUTOMOTIVE
Not to pick on anyone but you can get the entire assy. from the dealership for around $65. I had to replace both rears and got sick and tired of messing around so I called the dealership and they had them in stock.
Really? That'* great! What dealer? Do they ship out? The cheapest found anywhere else has been $180, before shipping and handling, on eBay.
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Old 09-06-2006, 10:35 PM   #14
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Ditto on Archon'* reply....
what do you get? the whole sled and wires? Or maybe a better question (for someone like me) is what do you ask for?
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Old 09-08-2006, 08:23 PM   #15
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I checked around and 180 to 200 was as cheap as I could find. Man for 65 bucks apeice you could replace all four for a little more than what one would cost. let us know more about this.

I'd be all over it,

Thanks,

Tim
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Old 09-09-2006, 01:51 AM   #16
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Only bad thing about a replacement is they may be no better (except the new intermediate steering shaft design Archon mentioned, we hope!)

I had one of my doors apart and put the fix bracket on before it had broke, which I would highly recommend. No cables to mess with. I found that if the bottoms of the 1/2" long ends of the Fix bracket are bell-bottomed (slightly wider at the bottom) the bracket will Snap into place and I can't imagine it ever falling out. The white plastic carrier it snaps into is open on the underside, allowing the bracket "bell bottoms" some clearance once it is installed. Just a slight improvement on the idea, but you have to grind-check fit-grind-check fit. This is also a good time to put a new seal on the infamous door water shield since it has to be removed to get the window regulator out!
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Old 09-10-2006, 01:45 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LJJCS_AUTOMOTIVE
Not to pick on anyone but you can get the entire assy. from the dealership for around $65. I had to replace both rears and got sick and tired of messing around so I called the dealership and they had them in stock.
bump this!
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Old 09-10-2006, 02:31 PM   #18
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Good information, previous to this..the only thing available was $200 or so or for the regulator.
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Old 09-11-2006, 08:26 PM   #19
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Default another route for some......just disconnect if rear window

Guys, I know this is not for most, but I just didn't have the time or the cash to invest in doing the fix the right way. My rr window sploded all over so I just removed the rear door panel, unhooked the electric plug from the mota and then slide the window all the way back up into the closed position, then took a piece of rubber and a hose clamp to the metal runner that the window slides on. This keep sthe window in place..............and.... doesn't keep hurting the cable if there is anything left of it till I can get to it..............when the three kids are done with hockey in 10 years "L"
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Old 09-11-2006, 09:08 PM   #20
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That'* a viable solution to the problem. People have used anything from screws to C-clamps to hold it up. Good idea on disconnecting the power also, as many cables get scrunched when the switch is still used after the cable pulls through.
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