Header Install - Page 8 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


2000-2005 Discuss your 2000-2005 Bonneville SE, SLE, and SSEi Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Reply
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-24-2004, 10:14 PM   #71
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 0
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
2000SilverBullet is on a distinguished road
Default

For your info, the stock front & rear manifold, crossover and downpipe weight 17 lbs.

PontiacDad, what is the weight of the new ones
2000SilverBullet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2004, 10:38 PM   #72
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Purgatory
Posts: 6,313
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
PontiacDad is on a distinguished road
Default

Hmm....well I dont have a fish scale to check but the shipping box was over 50 pounds with pulley and puller tool. The header flanges are 1/2" stainless and the down pipe is 3/8" so I'm going to guess 30lbs total. The cross over pipe is light, maybe 2 pounds.

Had the car on the hoist at work today for a good look over then did the pulley swap and sc oil change. I could do the install tommorrow as I have everything but stainless welding rod.....do I need stainless rod?

Oh well its a blizzard outside and was fun testing the 'boost' in the basement of the sawmill. Only 500 meters long before the far wall and pegging the boost gauge was a riot while the maintence crew looked on
PontiacDad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2004, 01:02 AM   #73
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 0
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
2000SilverBullet is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Hmm....well I dont have a fish scale to check but the shipping box was over 50 pounds with pulley and puller tool. The header flanges are 1/2" stainless and the down pipe is 3/8" so I'm going to guess 30lbs total. The cross over pipe is light, maybe 2 pounds.

Had the car on the hoist at work today for a good look over then did the pulley swap and sc oil change. I could do the install tommorrow as I have everything but stainless welding rod.....do I need stainless rod?

Oh well its a blizzard outside and was fun testing the 'boost' in the basement of the sawmill. Only 500 meters long before the far wall and pegging the boost gauge was a riot while the maintence crew looked on
You don't need a fishscale. Just hold them while you're on the bathroom scales and subtract the weight when you are not holding them. It'll be close enough.

You should use 308 rod. The headers are not stainless. They are ceramic coated alloy steel......I think.

They don't allow personal vehicles in our plant. You're pretty lucky....and apparantly not very busy at work.
I'll have to have a word with your Manager!!
2000SilverBullet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2004, 09:38 AM   #74
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Purgatory
Posts: 6,313
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
PontiacDad is on a distinguished road
Default

General Manager gave me hand with the pulley swap, he had never seen a super charger up close before. I had 5 contrators in yesterday and thats why I couldnt get started on the headers as I had to swoop' in and out to check up on them

Your right, I just placed a magnet over them and there not stainless....why did I thnk they were? Must be the crome finnish on the down pipe?
PontiacDad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2004, 11:49 AM   #75
Sol
Senior Member
True Car Nut
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 8,909
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Sol is on a distinguished road
Default

Man, your car is going to own.
Sol is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2004, 12:32 PM   #76
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 0
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
2000SilverBullet is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
General Manager gave me hand with the pulley swap, he had never seen a super charger up close before. I had 5 contrators in yesterday and thats why I couldnt get started on the headers as I had to swoop' in and out to check up on them

Your right, I just placed a magnet over them and there not stainless....why did I thnk they were? Must be the crome finnish on the down pipe?
Sounds like your Manager is not molded from the usual "******* Manager" type.

Supervising Contractors on the weekend is what I sometimes do too so I know what you mean.

I think the metal gloss must be the Ceramic coating....unless the flex connector downpipe is finished differently to accommadate welding, so it might be chromed.

In a previous post one the guys who has done this job before said that he had to remove the downpipe and CAT to clear the entry for the rear header. There are only 4 bolts holding the rest of the exhaust system in place so it won't be a big deal removing it....and think of the weight savings..
Those original 2 1/4" main pipe coming out of the resonator leading to the twin 2" tail pipes into the mufflers are too small IMO....twin 2 1/4" split off the 2 1/2" main pipe should be used.....twin 2 1/2" split off of a 3" main would be much better.
If you replace your system where will get the Y splitter to go from and what sizes would you use?
2000SilverBullet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2004, 04:27 PM   #77
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Purgatory
Posts: 6,313
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
PontiacDad is on a distinguished road
Default

Yes the flex is lightly chromed, probably will burn off or blue?
You know I hadnt given much thought to the main pipe but your right it would be nice to go with a 3" main to 2 1/2" split. Or would it be better for bottom end with the stock size?
PontiacDad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2004, 07:24 PM   #78
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 0
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
2000SilverBullet is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
You know I hadnt given much thought to the main pipe but your right it would be nice to go with a 3" main to 2 1/2" split. Or would it be better for bottom end with the stock size?
Ya, that'* what I was thinking. To stay with the stock exhaust for the low end torque. Can always change it out later and gauge the difference.
I know that I didn't lose any torque in my Jeep when I removed the CAT and installed the Borla, but I kept the stock 2 1/4" pipe size.....just went all stainless with a cool Borla 4" tip. That sucker really moves....for an SUV. On wet roads it will lose traction in straightline acceleration, even in 4WD.

I dropped the rest of the exhaust down onto blocks under the car. Very easy to do, even by myself alone.
Cleaned up the exhaust tips and touched up the black paint. Those tips would be wasted if you had to replace the pipes....I like them and they are a trademark for this car even if they are too small.
Now I will cut off the CAT and it will be much easier to install the headers.
I plan to cut the 2 1/2" pipe in front of the Resonator then connect the 3" header downpipe to it.
I should be fun driving to the muffler shop with open headers.
2000SilverBullet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2004, 11:13 PM   #79
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 0
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
2000SilverBullet is on a distinguished road
Default



They just arrived today.

All together they weight 15 lbs....about 2 lbs lighter than the stock ones.

The outlet is the same size, 2 3/4" diameter as the inlet to the catalytic converter, but the outlet pipe from the CAT is 2 1/2" so I will have to reduce slightly to match up if I decide to connect to the existing exhaust before the resonator.

Yes, all the fasteners, O2 sensor extension and flex pipe gasket are included.
There are no engine header gaskets but I think the originals can be reused.

Perfect timing

One thing I just figured out, that hopefully won't be a big problem, is the new header flanges are 1/2" thick compared to the original ones that are 3/8" thick.........so that sounds good that they are thicker but.....now the engine cover bracket will be offset by 1/8", and also the dipstick tube and engine lift brackets.
I really don't think it will be a problem since I won't be using the original cover and the dipstick tube is flexible enough to take the offset. Just thought I would outline the differences.
2000SilverBullet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2004, 11:28 PM   #80
Senior Member
Posts like a 4 Banger
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Staten Island New York
Posts: 110
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
jmp417 is on a distinguished road
Default

Those look real SWEET Can't the downpipes from the GP be made to fit our cars easier than making a custom downpipe? They look pretty simple from the pictures I've seen. Good Luck on the install I know they will be worth the effort just by the way they look.
jmp417 is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
WBS Header Install Notes BillBoost37 Performance, Brainstorming & Tuning 10 09-29-2011 08:06 AM
Header install on my 99 radomirthegreat Your Ride: GM Pictures & Videos 15 04-23-2010 12:31 AM
Header Install Advice....Headers are in...sorta Hans Performance, Brainstorming & Tuning 54 10-25-2007 08:04 AM
SLP Header install?? busa-max 2000-2005 6 06-15-2007 03:57 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:57 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.