GM vs aftermarket rotors
Hey
so the Bonneville is going in monday for an oil change...and AGAIN to get the rotors replaced ... for the third time.
They've all been warrentied through my service shop, and he'* great with the cars in my family. But with the rotors, i know 60 ft pounds of torque is the limit, but what would cause a rotor to warp in under 2000 miles? its the third time since january 07.
can any one suggest a good brake rotor, drilled aftermarket vs. Delco original style rotor?? :?:
The current brand are Wagners. and i dont do sudden hard stops with the car either, so im out of ideas.
pete
so the Bonneville is going in monday for an oil change...and AGAIN to get the rotors replaced ... for the third time.
They've all been warrentied through my service shop, and he'* great with the cars in my family. But with the rotors, i know 60 ft pounds of torque is the limit, but what would cause a rotor to warp in under 2000 miles? its the third time since january 07.
can any one suggest a good brake rotor, drilled aftermarket vs. Delco original style rotor?? :?:
The current brand are Wagners. and i dont do sudden hard stops with the car either, so im out of ideas.
pete
But with the rotors, i know 60 ft pounds of torque is the limit, but what would cause a rotor to warp in under 2000 miles? its the third time since january 07.
I torque all my lugs evenly to 90 ft-lbs. 60 is too low IMO.
dont laugh at me.... i thought so too
my friend who owns 2 impala'* told me that he sets his to 60. I thought tight is tight no matter what, and im confused on how too tight of a wheel kills the rotors. my 92 bonneville, i just air wrenched them on and never had 1 problem ever
any suggestions?
my friend who owns 2 impala'* told me that he sets his to 60. I thought tight is tight no matter what, and im confused on how too tight of a wheel kills the rotors. my 92 bonneville, i just air wrenched them on and never had 1 problem ever
any suggestions?
Rotors will not warp from over torquing the nuts. They warp from uneven or low torque that will loosen the nuts and create warping.
I have never warped a rotor since ensuring even consistent torque.........and yes it is 100 ft lbs for the aluminum wheels.
I have never warped a rotor since ensuring even consistent torque.........and yes it is 100 ft lbs for the aluminum wheels.
Guest
Posts: n/a
I don't have a preference as far as brand goes but after only 2,000 miles, unless something else is severely wrong, you should at least be able to do turn them enough to true them up.
Perhaps you need to be lookiing at the front suspension to be sure something else isn't going on.
Perhaps you need to be lookiing at the front suspension to be sure something else isn't going on.
I recommend Bendix brake parts, they have the best warranty. I have them and i'm hard on brakes and they have not warped and yes, definitely 90-100ft-lbs on lugs, those are high grade nuts and bolts, make em tight. under torquing can warp the rotors because there is a small amount of movement, it all needs to be tight under braking.
I'm not an expert, but I believe under or over torking of your rim would cause hot spots possibly leading to rim fatigue or even rotor warpage
I would also be checking for another failure? Possibly your rear brakes are not working, or you have a master cylinder failure where only one front is working....thus over heating?
I would also be checking for another failure? Possibly your rear brakes are not working, or you have a master cylinder failure where only one front is working....thus over heating?



