fuel gauge working sometimes........possible fix:)
12-17-2006, 09:20 PM
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fuel gauge working sometimes........possible fix:)
Folks, I finally took the time yesterday to take a look at my fuel gauge. Every since I had purchased the car, the thing has acted funky once it gets down to about half way. I've read about the problem on this forum, so I kind of knew about the fuel pump/gauge replacement process. Here'* what I did.
1st I purged the fuel pressure by removing the engine cover, and taking a rag, I pressed on the fuel rail relief valve (you need to unscrew the cap first). I use the rag to let the fuel soak into it. Please make sure the engine is cool
2nd, I remove the screws that hold the cover where the fuel pump resides. This is under the trunk floor mat. It is towards the back right side of the trunk. Once here take special care to remove all grit and grim from the area. I first tried to vacuum it, then blew out all the dirt with my air compressor. Next I needed to remove the retainer ring that holds the pump in place. It is held in place by about five or six steel pieces that need to be pryed up a bit. Once you do this I used a straight blade screw driver and a hammer to knock the retainer ring about 3/4" counter clockwise until it is free from the steel pieces. You then need to remove two electrical connectors and the two fuel lines. Have a rag handy again to catch the fuel that will splill. There is still some pressure there also, so watch the ol trouble light. The fuel canister/pump is now ready to come out. Take your time because it is pretty long, pulse a filter and the fuel gadge level needs to come out with it. You need to give it a bit of a twist to get it out. Keep plenty of rags around cause the the thing will be full of fuel.
Once out, you will now see the fuel level sensor unit. It looks like two speedo gauges on a white circuit board. There are two mettle "legs" that make contact with the white ceramic board with the two "speedo'*" on it. I took my contact cleaner and cleaned up all the contacts, then I carfully rebent the little legs.
I have no idea if I actually fixed anything yet as my tank was pretty full. I'll update after Christmas to let everyone know if I fixed anything. I figured if nothing else, I now know it is pretty easy to remove this assembley
1st I purged the fuel pressure by removing the engine cover, and taking a rag, I pressed on the fuel rail relief valve (you need to unscrew the cap first). I use the rag to let the fuel soak into it. Please make sure the engine is cool
2nd, I remove the screws that hold the cover where the fuel pump resides. This is under the trunk floor mat. It is towards the back right side of the trunk. Once here take special care to remove all grit and grim from the area. I first tried to vacuum it, then blew out all the dirt with my air compressor. Next I needed to remove the retainer ring that holds the pump in place. It is held in place by about five or six steel pieces that need to be pryed up a bit. Once you do this I used a straight blade screw driver and a hammer to knock the retainer ring about 3/4" counter clockwise until it is free from the steel pieces. You then need to remove two electrical connectors and the two fuel lines. Have a rag handy again to catch the fuel that will splill. There is still some pressure there also, so watch the ol trouble light. The fuel canister/pump is now ready to come out. Take your time because it is pretty long, pulse a filter and the fuel gadge level needs to come out with it. You need to give it a bit of a twist to get it out. Keep plenty of rags around cause the the thing will be full of fuel. Once out, you will now see the fuel level sensor unit. It looks like two speedo gauges on a white circuit board. There are two mettle "legs" that make contact with the white ceramic board with the two "speedo'*" on it. I took my contact cleaner and cleaned up all the contacts, then I carfully rebent the little legs.
I have no idea if I actually fixed anything yet as my tank was pretty full. I'll update after Christmas to let everyone know if I fixed anything. I figured if nothing else, I now know it is pretty easy to remove this assembley
12-17-2006, 10:15 PM
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the fix was posted on the Aurora Boards by someone who works on cars for a living. Here'* his write-up on how to fix this very common problem.
EDIT: I always forget to ask this, but exactly how long is the fuel pump assembly in all? Do you need the full trunk-height to get it out? The reason I ask is because I have my amps mounted directly under my rear deck so I've lost probably a good 8" off the total trunk height. I'm afraid of doing all that work just to find out the fuel pump won't come out because of height restrictions in my trunk...
EDIT: I always forget to ask this, but exactly how long is the fuel pump assembly in all? Do you need the full trunk-height to get it out? The reason I ask is because I have my amps mounted directly under my rear deck so I've lost probably a good 8" off the total trunk height. I'm afraid of doing all that work just to find out the fuel pump won't come out because of height restrictions in my trunk...
Here I am, 1 in the morning.... I know, i promised pics of the fuel level sensor fix. Its been a rough day.
Well here goes.....
To start i'm assuming that you're mechanically competent enough to remove your fuel pump(module assembly), so i won't waste time starting there. This fix is NOT for any level sensor that doesn't look EXACTLY like the one in the pictures. If you have a '95, and i think maybe a '96 this isn't for you. After removing the pump, you will need to remove the level sensor assembly from it. There are lock clips on the connector in the top of the module(inside, not outside), and on the clip that holds the level sensor assembly on the side of the module. These both need to be removed, a small flat screwdriver should do the trick. The level sensor slides down and off once you remove the lock from the top of it, and be careful with the clips because they can be brittle. If you break the ceramic card on your level sensor, expect to buy the correct one for your car because the 'empty' and 'full' resistance values are specific to the Aurora, and certain model years. Anything OEM besides the correct level sensor for your car will read fuel level wrong. We're not replacing the actual ceramic resistor, we're replacing the contact arm that completes the circuit.
To be prepared for this parts swap you need to go to your local dealer (or buy online) and get part #15824379 harness/sensor kit. This part is designed to do way more than what we're using it for, and the contents other than the parts on the sensor itself should not be attempted to be used in any way. Another great reason for using this kit is because it retails for $43.30 from any GM dealer, and GM has more than 20,000 in stock.
Once you open your box it should have something that looks like this in it.
You can disregard any and all other parts in the box. The mineral oil will be helpful for re-installing your pump, as you may want to put some on the old seal so that it seats in the tank easily. Do not use the new seal in the box, its not for your car. Once you have the level sensor out of the box, you need to figure out a way to remove the bushing that holds the float arm on the ceramic resistor. What I usually do is I set the sensor upside-down on top of 2 objects that are the same height and support the entire part except the float arm. Doing this you can use a punch, or other object (phillips screwdriver) to press the bushing out of the assembly. When you're done doing this you will have the part you need.
The gray piece is the only part out of the entire box that you'll be using.
The small metal 'fingers' have been redesigned and no longer wear off like the old design used to.
If you use these very basic instructions and disassemble your level sensor, replace the plastic float arm, and them reassemble everything, you will end up with a "good as new" fuel gauge. Doing this you will have saved over $100 on parts alone. If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I'll try to answer them. I know i haven't been very thorough in explaining this procedure, but i'm sure you guys out there can figure it out. I did (once upon a time), and it only took me 3 tries to get it right ;D There is no GM procedure for doing this, they want you to spend the money and get the correct part for your car....
Well here goes.....
To start i'm assuming that you're mechanically competent enough to remove your fuel pump(module assembly), so i won't waste time starting there. This fix is NOT for any level sensor that doesn't look EXACTLY like the one in the pictures. If you have a '95, and i think maybe a '96 this isn't for you. After removing the pump, you will need to remove the level sensor assembly from it. There are lock clips on the connector in the top of the module(inside, not outside), and on the clip that holds the level sensor assembly on the side of the module. These both need to be removed, a small flat screwdriver should do the trick. The level sensor slides down and off once you remove the lock from the top of it, and be careful with the clips because they can be brittle. If you break the ceramic card on your level sensor, expect to buy the correct one for your car because the 'empty' and 'full' resistance values are specific to the Aurora, and certain model years. Anything OEM besides the correct level sensor for your car will read fuel level wrong. We're not replacing the actual ceramic resistor, we're replacing the contact arm that completes the circuit.
To be prepared for this parts swap you need to go to your local dealer (or buy online) and get part #15824379 harness/sensor kit. This part is designed to do way more than what we're using it for, and the contents other than the parts on the sensor itself should not be attempted to be used in any way. Another great reason for using this kit is because it retails for $43.30 from any GM dealer, and GM has more than 20,000 in stock.
Once you open your box it should have something that looks like this in it.
You can disregard any and all other parts in the box. The mineral oil will be helpful for re-installing your pump, as you may want to put some on the old seal so that it seats in the tank easily. Do not use the new seal in the box, its not for your car. Once you have the level sensor out of the box, you need to figure out a way to remove the bushing that holds the float arm on the ceramic resistor. What I usually do is I set the sensor upside-down on top of 2 objects that are the same height and support the entire part except the float arm. Doing this you can use a punch, or other object (phillips screwdriver) to press the bushing out of the assembly. When you're done doing this you will have the part you need.
The gray piece is the only part out of the entire box that you'll be using.
The small metal 'fingers' have been redesigned and no longer wear off like the old design used to.
If you use these very basic instructions and disassemble your level sensor, replace the plastic float arm, and them reassemble everything, you will end up with a "good as new" fuel gauge. Doing this you will have saved over $100 on parts alone. If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I'll try to answer them. I know i haven't been very thorough in explaining this procedure, but i'm sure you guys out there can figure it out. I did (once upon a time), and it only took me 3 tries to get it right ;D There is no GM procedure for doing this, they want you to spend the money and get the correct part for your car....
12-17-2006, 11:05 PM
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Yup, I knew it was here or the Aurora forum I had read it:)
The part is 22.52 out on GMpartsdirect.com. I just want to se if I fixed it without spending anything but my time. I would say the fuel canister or what ever I should call it is about a foot long. It does fit under the trunk lid.
12-20-2006, 11:46 AM
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Well, it didn't work:)
Guess its time to toss a few greenbacks at the problem. I'll let everyone know how the changeout goes
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