Front Gel filled motormount - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


2000-2005 Discuss your 2000-2005 Bonneville SE, SLE, and SSEi Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 08-04-2004, 12:32 AM   #11
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Well Todd, Dealer said that motor mount was fine, couldn't/ didn't find why the gas pedal vibrates. They actually blamed it on my tranny tube zipe tie. Told me to take it back to the performance shop, me response was, I am the performance shop! Sir you have some zip ties on the cable, no I don't, it'* on the power steering line. That conversation got me no where.

So along with that considering trying out that solid motor mount. Any body want to make me one or a few and sell them?
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Old 08-04-2004, 12:36 AM   #12
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Tranny dipstick zip tie causes a vibration in the pedal?

ummm mate
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Old 08-04-2004, 10:18 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TaylorD
Well Todd, Dealer said that motor mount was fine, couldn't/ didn't find why the gas pedal vibrates. They actually blamed it on my tranny tube zipe tie. Told me to take it back to the performance shop, me response was, I am the performance shop! Sir you have some zip ties on the cable, no I don't, it'* on the power steering line. That conversation got me no where.
Some places really **** me off.
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Old 08-04-2004, 10:32 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrueWildMan
Some places really **** me off.
Yeah me too, but other than this one incident I'm pretty happy with Jerry Haggerty Ponitac Sevice, they all know me buy my first name by sight now, parts department too. Not many headers see the shop I guess. But there cool with me and willing to continue service with me.
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Old 08-05-2004, 12:10 AM   #15
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That OEM jelly do-nut has got to go.

YES. It causes the motor to rotate (clockwise when standing on the drivers side).
The mount itself only has about 1/2" of shock absorbing movement but it translates to a couple of inches up near the top of the engine......where the connection to major things like air intake, fuel, control cables, and the rear of the engine to the exhaust pipe....that'* what the flex connection is for, besides expansion.

Now with the solid mount, the engine reaction to throttle input is instantaneous, without having to wait a millisecond for the jelly do-nut to compress and the entire engine to rotate a few degrees.

Rogue, you and Taylor both need to hold down all the torque you are making now.
The GTP'* don't have this kind of engine isolation device.
It'* one of the luxury features. To tell you the truth, it doesn't make much difference at all. My wife can't tell and I can just barely.

Taylor, follow the link above. All the technical info is there to do it yourself. Any machine shop can make up the aluminum spacer.
I made my prototype out of stacking big washers.
Good luck.

Do a simple test. Drive in 1st gear. At a slow speed of 20 mph, nail the throttle, then let off and nail it again.....repeat until you have erased all the dashed yellow lines.
You know what I mean.
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Old 08-05-2004, 10:21 AM   #16
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Default motor mount

How can you be sure you need the mount? When under the hood and revving the engine,the engine rocks back and forth quite noticeably,with the movement seeming to originate from that front mount. Also when putting it into low or second and taking off normally,it feels like to engine is falling out..............accel and it clunks (not really a clunk noise,more of a clunk feel) .....decel and it does it again.........is that the mount or something worse?
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Old 08-06-2004, 12:24 AM   #17
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Place the car in park, open the hood, then rock the car back to front to get the engine rocking.....as hard as you can....you can't produce as much torque as your engine can.

From the sound of what you have described, it sounds like it could be frapped.
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Old 08-07-2004, 04:03 PM   #18
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i was the first to make the solid mount. i have made a total of 4 of them.
the easiest to make is with a 3" hole saw to cut 3" disks from the sidewall
of a truck or car tire, stack the disks so you have about 4" in hight.
put a bolt through them and tighten it down, that is an inexpensive, TOUGH
and easy to fix mount if you ever have too.
p.*. don't forget the 3" washer on top of the top disk.

ROD
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