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Old 04-07-2008, 11:41 PM   #1
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Default Dex cool flush...Best way?

What is the best proceedure to remove the dex cool from the 00. It still has the dexcool that looks good, but I want it ...............................................out ta there.

What is the best way of going about it. I have done t stats and colant changes before, but what is the best way to get all of it out?
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Old 04-08-2008, 12:48 AM   #2
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Default Re: Dex cool flush...Best way?

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Originally Posted by myfirstbonnie
What is the best proceedure to remove the dex cool from the 00. It still has the dexcool that looks good, but I want it ...............................................out ta there.

What is the best way of going about it. I have done t stats and colant changes before, but what is the best way to get all of it out?
I'm sure it'* not the best way, but it'* how I did it. I disconnected teh lower hose and drained it in to a few catch pans. It'* a pain because there'* a frame there. I then connected the hose and filled it with water. Ran the engine till the water moved for a while. then shut it down and drained it again. I did this 4 times. Thre was still a little pink left, but most was gone. Made a huge mess. Then filled with stright radiator fluid. Figuered the engine had water, so it woudl mix to about the correct ratio. I belive total is 13 quarts, I added about 6 to fill it up. That'* about as close to 50/50 as I was going to get. On my car I had to get to the hose clamp from the top. I used a bunch of extensions.
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Old 04-08-2008, 12:51 AM   #3
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Danthurs, the underbody and subframe are quite different on the 2k. He may or may not have issues like you.

This is the best way:

http://www.prestone.com/products/fla...cessories2.swf

Available at any parts store. Replace with the 'mixes with any' prestone. NOT the DEX compatible.
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Old 04-08-2008, 12:52 AM   #4
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I use the Prestone "Flush and FIll Kit"
http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...ductId=1289874
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Old 04-08-2008, 12:53 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Danthurs, the underbody and subframe are quite different on the 2k. He may or may not have issues like you.

This is the best way:

http://www.prestone.com/products/fla...cessories2.swf

Available at any parts store. Replace with the 'mixes with any' prestone. NOT the DEX compatible.
I would be nice if they fixed that problem, because that was a mess.
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Old 04-08-2008, 12:59 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Danthurs, the underbody and subframe are quite different on the 2k. He may or may not have issues like you.

This is the best way:

http://www.prestone.com/products/fla...cessories2.swf

Available at any parts store. Replace with the 'mixes with any' prestone. NOT the DEX compatible.
Weekend project?........................this week.

Bill, should I go with a 180 or 160 stat?
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Old 04-08-2008, 01:10 AM   #7
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How hard is it to replace the stat? Pics?
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Old 04-08-2008, 01:24 AM   #8
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super easy. Two bolts come off where the upper radiator hose connects to the engine. Its right there. after putting together there is a bleeder valve on top of the fixture. Open it for a minute until it runs out in a stream. All done 10 minutes max.
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Old 04-08-2008, 01:26 AM   #9
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Stats are a piece of cake, it is just getting all the coolant out of the block I am concerned about.

The thermostat just requires draining enough coolant so it'* level is below the top of the block and 2 bolts gets the housing off. Some cars use a gasket, others use an oring and seal set-up.
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Old 04-08-2008, 10:36 AM   #10
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If you use the Prestone method, you will not get a complete reverse flush of the engine block because the thermostat has not been removed and will not allow a reverse flow from the outlet of the intake manifold backwards through the heads and block. You will also not get a reverse flush of the heater core because the water is flowing through the Tee to the heater core in the normal direction of flow. And, the only part of the radiator that is reversed flushed with the Prestone Tee method is the right side tank. The Prestone method will remove most of the coolant from the engine but the area near the thermostat becomes an area of no-flow. When I use the Prestone Tee to flush, I do not cut the heater hose to install it, but simply remove the hose from the engine, insert the tee, and add a short piece of hose to connect the other side of the tee back to the engine. That way, the flushing tee can be removed and the hose replaced without adding two more fittings that can become a leak.

Depending on how much time you have and how meticulous you care to be, you can reverse flush the heater core, engine, and radiator, by removing the thermostat, isolating each part of the system and flushing each part backwards with a garden hose. Remember that the design operating pressure of the cooling system is about 17 psi and most city water pressures run at about 90 psi. You can damage your heater core, or radiator with 90 pounds of pressure. Minimize that possibility by making sure during flushing that the other end of the portion of the system you are flushing is open, and that the hose nozzle is only held in place by hand or sealed with a rag in the larger openings like the radiator hoses. That prevents the development of damaging pressures.

To reverse flush, you simply go in the opposite direction from normal flow. Normal flow is: From the bottom of the radiator into the water pump. From the water pump to the engine block - from the block to the cylinder heads - from the heads to the intake manifold - from the intake manifold to the heater core - from the heater core to the water pump. From the intake manifold past the thermostat to the upper radiator hose - through the radiator left to right and top to bottom.

One way to reverse flush each component is described here: http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=84203

When you are done flushing, you will want to fill with "mixes with any color or type" coolant using the method described in Techinfo: http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...=article&k=100
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