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Old 08-16-2007, 03:59 PM   #11
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I will check it again......be right back.
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Old 08-16-2007, 04:18 PM   #12
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The connection is good. I took it apart and the seal was good. Looks like new inside the connection area. Put it back together and hooked up the battery. Still no start.
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Old 08-16-2007, 04:38 PM   #13
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I checked out the connection on the PCM also.
What would be the next logical step?
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Old 08-16-2007, 05:00 PM   #14
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See if you have 12 volts at the pink/black wire going to the ICM. Key in run position when testing.
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Old 08-16-2007, 06:40 PM   #15
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The car ran ok before I started the swap. It just had an intermittent miss with tach dropping to zero and a check engine code for crank sensor. With this in mind I went for the third swap back to my original crank sensor. Now the car runs again. I'm not sure how good it runs yet. But it starts right up. I went right on down to the parts store and took the second new one back. Now I'm out nothing except my work. I noticed that my original sensor was magnetized and had some small filings stuck to the sensing surface. I cleaned it off. Maybe the car will run better. I'll give a better report when I get a test drive.
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Old 08-16-2007, 06:56 PM   #16
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it is possible that the new crank sensors are out of alignment enough compared to the OEM that the car does not read the position properly and therefore will not start without a CASE learn.. GM tells us that a CASE learn is always required when changing the crank sensor, but most people do not do so, with no ill results
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Old 08-16-2007, 07:08 PM   #17
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That could have been the problem. The local auto electric guys say they haven't run into that. They say they did hear of bad new sensors though. I'm hoping that the small clump of iron filings stuck to the magnetized sensor was what was giving me the intermittent code. At least it runs now. I made an appointment for next week with the best auto electric place around here. When I made the appointment the car didn't run. The guy said it'* going to be pricey if the car doesn't even run. So at least I avoided the dead car appointment. That could be an expensive nightmare.
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Old 08-16-2007, 07:23 PM   #18
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when i had my 2000, i had an intermittent stumble and occasional tach dying issue... I too, cleaned the sensor, and it seemed to help for a couple months, but no more than 9 months later, i was getting a tow home and replacing a dead sensor
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Old 08-16-2007, 08:11 PM   #19
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I took it for a good long test drive and to keep it simple, it ran perfect! Must have been those darn metal fragments that were stuck to the magnetized sensor. Since it'* magnetized I bet it will get dirty again. Last swap took 42 minutes. If it get'* dirty again I will take a hour and clean it. I hope this will help many people in the future with these symptoms. All you gotta do is clean the sensor if you are lucky. I say it'* worth a try. And for those who are trying to figure out what size bolts to use to pull the balancer, they are 6mm by 2.5". Also, I used a 3/8 bolt layed in the end of the crank for the puller to push against. It was the only thing I had the right length. I used a bolt that was about 3 inches long. It stuck out a half an inch. Thanks for the help!
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Old 08-17-2007, 12:08 PM   #20
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I had a very similar situation and found filings on the sensor. I got lucky and replaced the sensor w/o issue.

Oddly enough about the Case learn. You can't case learn a car until it runs.
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