View Poll Results: How often do you change your oil?
Don't really keep track of when the oil is changed.
0
0%
You have the change the oil in these things?!?!?!?!?
0
0%
Voters: 47. You may not vote on this poll
Changing your oil???
04-09-2004, 07:08 PM
#11
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Actually, I need to correct my post, I use the Purolator Pure One, which normally goes for about $5, but is on sale twice a year at Fleet Farm for less than that. (I stock up)
I came to this conclusion several years ago, based on an article that I saw reprinted. Most of that information is now available on this web page:
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...ilfilters.html (Click on the brand names to see what they actually look like inside)
After seeing exactly how they were made, and how they filtered, I found the Pure One to be the best fit for me.
It seems as though the Mobil 1 filter is the best, but 2-3 times the cost.
Pure One seemed to be right up there, and a value considering the Fleet Farm sale price.
And each to their own, but I would install an oil filter bypass, with no filter, before using a Fram. :(
I came to this conclusion several years ago, based on an article that I saw reprinted. Most of that information is now available on this web page:
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...ilfilters.html (Click on the brand names to see what they actually look like inside)
After seeing exactly how they were made, and how they filtered, I found the Pure One to be the best fit for me.
It seems as though the Mobil 1 filter is the best, but 2-3 times the cost.
Pure One seemed to be right up there, and a value considering the Fleet Farm sale price.
And each to their own, but I would install an oil filter bypass, with no filter, before using a Fram. :(
04-09-2004, 08:29 PM
#12
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You chose a good filter with the Pureone but that "oil filter study" is dated.A good website(go to the forums for all the topics) for discussion of lubricants,filtration,oil analysis results of different oils in peoples vehicles and a lot more topics ,check out www.bobistheoilguy.com.Use the search function to hopefully find what you're looking for if a specific filter or oil or whatever.Yea, Fram gets slammed alot here too.And people do post pictures of dissected oil filters.
04-09-2004, 08:38 PM
#13
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OK let'* try that again.The first word of the next sentence got "linkified". Its www.bobistheoilguy.com
04-15-2004, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by SSEi 2000
You guys will have to forgive me, but what is wrong with the Fram filter? I am just curious.
Filters To Avoid
The following list of filters have known problems. You will see well-known names here and will probably be disappointed. This is because many of these brands have stopped making their own filters and buy from a common manufacturer.
Fram Extra Guard
Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circuilating through my system. The oil passge to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it.
Fram Double Guard
Another bad filter idea brought to you by your friends at Fram. The filter itself is a slightly improved design over the Fram Extra Guard, but still uses the same filter element. It has a silicone anti-drainback valve, a quality pressure releif valve, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The big problem is that they are trying to cash in on the Slick 50 craze. They impregnate the filter element with bits of Teflon like that found in Slick 50. As with Slick 50, Teflon is a solid and does not belong in an engine. It cannot get into the parts of the engine that oil can and therefore does nothing. Also, as the filter gets dirty, it ends up filtering the Teflon right out. Dupont (the manufacturer of Teflon) does not recommend Teflon for use in internal combustion engines. Please do not waste your money on this filter.
The following list of filters have known problems. You will see well-known names here and will probably be disappointed. This is because many of these brands have stopped making their own filters and buy from a common manufacturer.
Fram Extra Guard
Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circuilating through my system. The oil passge to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it.
Fram Double Guard
Another bad filter idea brought to you by your friends at Fram. The filter itself is a slightly improved design over the Fram Extra Guard, but still uses the same filter element. It has a silicone anti-drainback valve, a quality pressure releif valve, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The big problem is that they are trying to cash in on the Slick 50 craze. They impregnate the filter element with bits of Teflon like that found in Slick 50. As with Slick 50, Teflon is a solid and does not belong in an engine. It cannot get into the parts of the engine that oil can and therefore does nothing. Also, as the filter gets dirty, it ends up filtering the Teflon right out. Dupont (the manufacturer of Teflon) does not recommend Teflon for use in internal combustion engines. Please do not waste your money on this filter.
There are others to "avoid" also listed, most of them relabled Fram.
Make your own call. Look through the rest of the website. Click on the header for each brand to see the pictures of the inside of the filter.
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...ilfilters.html
04-15-2004, 10:26 AM
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So from reading the post it looks like the pure one and purolator filter are the way to go. Are there any other good ones? It does not matter how much they are, because however expensive if they are quality filters it is still cheap insurance.
04-15-2004, 02:04 PM
#19
Senior Member
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Originally Posted by Jim W
I watch my oil life monitor, when it reads 30% I usually schedule a change. Luckily the oil comes out pretty decent. Its just a nice way to celebrate another 5000kms, a fresh batch of oil for getting me around safely.
you schedule and not do it yourself ?? 
