I bought a tool for doing brakes on a Grand Prix I had, they turned in (most likely the same tool). I've seen them in the automotive tool section Sears (Lisle stuff), as well as auto parts stores. It is a cube-shaped tool about 1.25" across each side, which goes on a ratchet extension. There are different style piston-engagements on each of the six sides, around the ratchet drive hole.

Chances are you'll need to change the rotors too. The bolts for both the calipers & caliper bracket will be very tight. You could pull the car off the jack getting those loose. USE JACK STANDS!

changed the front pads this weekend, let me update you.

got new pads. oreillys didnt have ceramic pads for my car, so i bought "almost-ceramic" pads. thats what he called them, and i got a kick out of the term. lifetime replacement. also bought a new 2 ton hydraulic jack and two 2-ton jack stands. had the rotors turned too.

didnt do the backs, apparently those are fun. anyone feel like writing a techinfo on it?

car stops much much better now. im very impressed and pleased. i will be doing the fronts on my own in the future. only problem was, whats the best place to support the car with on the jack stands? pics, anyone? i put them where i thought best, and it looked like it might have been bending, so i moved them immediately.


EDIT: oh, anyone have any tips on breaking the bolts loose, for future reference? special tools?

I put the jackstands on the frame. I really only use one, and keep the jack as another. There wasn't a whole lot fo space when I was under there (i was changing the oil), so I couldn't really get both stands under there. Rears are a little easier to get the stands under. Just put the stands somewhere on the frame, anywhere you can find room for them. Don't put them on the half shafts or anything else important.

The backs weren't too hard, only problem I ahd was turning the piston to compress it. The tool helps, but I did it without. Just make sure you don't screw up the pistion, as that would be bad.