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Old 02-12-2005, 12:18 AM   #1
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Default Broken Wheel Stud

Anybody had to replace a wheel stud on their 2000+ bonne? (Or have advice for me)

One stud on the front of my SSEi seems to have decided to part from me, along with the lugnut that was attached to it. This is a little disturbing, but the rest are nice an tight, and show no signs of cracking. I'm assuming that a wheel monkey at some time got carried away and stessted the stud.

The point...I've replaced quite a few studs in my time by just beating it out, and using an impact (without the rim on) to pull the replacement in. Of course, this was on rear wheel drive cars, that you would pull the rotor, and then just hammer away.

Considering the studs are on a hub, that is integral with the bearings, any thoughts on the likelyhood of destroying the bearing by some cautious whacks to remove the old stud?

Appreciate any help/advice.

Freddi
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Old 02-12-2005, 02:42 PM   #2
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I had all my front studs replaced after 2 of mine broke. My mechanic said it was no problem and only charged me for 1 hour plus parts.
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Old 02-13-2005, 07:11 AM   #3
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Normally, I push it out with a tool I have to remove the stud from a tie-rod end. However, when my daughter-in-laws 98 Grand Am had a stud broken, I couldn't find it. So, I carefully punched it out, and so far it has not had a problem with the hub. That was about 6 months ago.
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Old 05-23-2006, 01:47 AM   #4
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just had this happen to me what this tool you are talking about i need to get one asap. or another way to get the studs out as i have 4 of 5 broken....this why i never let anyone work on my cars!!!!
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Old 05-24-2006, 03:00 AM   #5
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for future info here is the pic of the tie rod removal tool used
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=55146
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Old 05-24-2006, 03:04 AM   #6
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http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...=614248#614248

Check out that topic...info'* already in there...

But a punch and a big ***'d hammer and give'r hell!

Good Luck
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Old 05-30-2006, 07:38 PM   #7
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i went lookng for the tool with no luck. ended up wd 40ing it and with a hammer had no trouble. the issue was putting the new ones back in.
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Old 05-30-2006, 08:50 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdowney
i went lookng for the tool with no luck. ended up wd 40ing it and with a hammer had no trouble. the issue was putting the new ones back in.
That'* what I was going to suggest. I had to replace a stud on my 93 Bonnie and just gave 'er hell with a hammer until it came out.
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Old 06-03-2006, 02:21 AM   #9
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I've always used the hammer method.
I also worked in chassis engineering for several years, and there isn't any bearing guy that will recommend it. They're concerned that you'll brinnel the bearing, causing premature failure.

Anyway, if you use the hammer, I'd recommend that you turn the hub a little after each hit.

I do have a question...
Has anybody who'* broken a stud, ever put any oil, grease, or WD-40 on the threads? That used to be a pretty common practice years ago (I used to grease). It shouldn't be necessary any more, because the coatings are much better now.

Anyway, the theory is that by lubing the threads or the clamp face (or taper), the reduced friction causes more of the applied torque to be applied as clamping load... thereby over stressing the wheel stud.

More torque isn't better.
Use a torque wrench. (even a cheap one is better than guessing).
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Old 06-07-2006, 01:18 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeeVert
I do have a question...
Has anybody who'* broken a stud, ever put any oil, grease, or WD-40 on the threads? That used to be a pretty common practice years ago (I used to grease). It shouldn't be necessary any more, because the coatings are much better now.
I use Permatex anti-seize (silver stuff) on the threads. I use it because it protects the threads from galling, and since it'* silver, I can tell if it'* on there. Yes I'm fully aware of the rule you mentioned, but I'm stubborn.

This is my "torque wrench", a 1/2" drive ratchet as tight as I can get it.

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