I'm 1000 miles from my 2004 Bonneville GXP for the next month so I can't really crawl under the thing to check out the cables but would like to do a Big 3 upgrade and looking to order what I need while on the road.

My question is, how does the alternator positive run to the battery?

Does it go straight to the terminal on the starter, then uses the starter cable to run to the battery or are they two separate cables?

From what I recall, there are only 2 positive cables coming off of the battery, one going forward to the starter and one crossing over to the fuse box junction.

If my educated guess is right with the alternator running to the starter terminal, then to the battery. Would 0 gauge be sufficient for the high amperage of the starter? (I have a feeling that the factory cable isn't even that big)

Whats the Big 3..??

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i...rade-kits.html

you can leave the stock and add to it, so if you get the same as whats there you are effectively doubling your current capacity.

I realize that can be done. However, until I have access to my car I'm not sure how the battery or alternator cables are routed. Considering that the battery is under the rear seat there may not be room for too many cables running through whatever conduit/routing scheme they have going on. Plus, I like the idea of having it a bit tidy by not having 4 different cables attached to the positive lead.

I just thought someone might have messed with these cables themselves and can give me a quick answer.

I did my 2003 and found that the wiring was for the most part sufficient. I ended up adding a second solid state battery that is able to discharge much faster than a regular battery to help my girl keep up with the tremendous load I put on her.





I did end up replacing the wire going from the alternator to the fuse block in the engine bay with 0 since it appeared to be the weakest link in the chain.

So the alternator cable runs straight to the fuse block under the seat or is there another one under the hood?

I have a GXP which might be different in that aspect. I'm also looking at replacing the factory alternator with a 220 amp one I found online. (After swapping out my sub amps I'll be looking at about a 200 amp draw for the stereo at max volume)

Also, I just browsed your stereo pics album. I see you put sound matting over the cover of the box mounted on the support pillar directly behind the rear seat. (passenger side) When I did my trunk I just took some slices of mat and wrapped it around the edges where the cover meets the box itself. Got rid of the tinny vibration that came from it when I gave it a rap with my knuckles.

The best time spent when I matted my car was when I removed the rear light assembly and did a little matting along with some foam weather stripping in key areas along with some weather stripping behind the license plate. I also filled the cavities between the rear quarter panels and wheel wells with acoustic foam that I cut into 3 x 3 inch pieces, stuffed them in and held them in place with expanding foam. If you pull the liner out of the trunk it looks like crap in those areas but the system has enough dbs to make the windshield wipers bounce off the windshield, yet with the windows rolled up, the system isn't very loud at all outside.

Found some of the answers I'm looking for here...

http://.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=23302&start=20

The two boxes behind the seat are the Monsoon Amp (the black one) and the OnStar Control (the silver one). I ended up removing both in the end = P

Looks like that thread probably answered your question, but I ran the bigger wire just from the alternator to the under the hood fuse box which you can see right in front of my coolant reservoir. I didn't see any reason to upgrade the wire running back to the battery since it was of sufficient size to carry the amperage my alternator puts out down to the battery, and my equipment is hooked directly to the battery under the back seat.