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Old 01-26-2010, 11:42 PM   #11
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If you choose to rebuild, make sure you get it align bored. These motors for some reason are super picky to be nice about it. Many have rebuilt w/o having a bad bearing and the minute they put in new bearings etc...they get about 200 miles and oil pressure tanks.

Align bore or pick up another motor.. it'* really a no win trying to do it any other way. And motors are relatively cheap if you look around. Car-part.com is my friend.
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Old 01-26-2010, 11:45 PM   #12
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PS.. you'll want an engine support bracket or 4x4 and a chain to support the motor. From there the bracket really isn't too bad. Another 20 bolts and the pan falls off.

NOTE: unscrew and remove oil level sensor before pan. It sits above the pick up and breaks upon pan removal if you fail to remove the sensor first.
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Old 02-27-2010, 10:41 AM   #13
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picked up the JY motor yesterday 58K $1250

today I will change the water pump and replace the valve cover gaskets....and work on removing the old motor.

Is there an easy way (if at all to disconnect the harness without removing it from the motor.....so I can switch it over when it is out?

probably be easier to know what I MUST remove to pull it

thanks

Chris
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Old 02-28-2010, 11:03 PM   #14
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Personally I find it easier to leave the harness hooked to the car. Once you do the fuel injectors and throttle body..there'* not that many left.

To remove the engine

Pre-removal:
- obtain 4 foot extension
- drain oil
- drain coolant
- Have oil absorbent on hand 40lbs bag at parts store is usually $5
- obtain cherry picker and some chain


1. Do not drink, unhook battery
2. Disconnect FWI from motor, disconnect coolant hoses.
3. Start on top of car disconnecting all electrical to the motor only. Leave PCM/trans intact.
Injectors,Map, Maf, IAC, TP, alt, ground packs that go to engine, big connector on fuel rail by coil pack (do not disconnect crank and cam sensors or coil connector., that stays), evap.
4. Unhook fuel lines to rail, tuck under wiper arm.
5. Remove Alternator and it'* tensioner bracket assembly and bracket to SC from alt. 10mm, 13mm, 15mm
6. Jack car, remove passenger tire. Crawl under front unhook electrical from starter, ac, knock sensor and oil level sensor. 8mm, 13mm, 19mm and pick
7. Crawl further under and unbolt two exhaust bolts from downpipe to manifold.
Front
8. Remove flex shield, starter, and remove starter, unbolt flex to TC bolts through hole for starter. Rotate crank by HB bolt as needed. 10mm, 15mm, 18mm, 27mm
Pass Side
9. Unbolt The AC Compressor, lay it on front subframe 15mm
10. Undo wire look clipped to ps pump. (easier before you unbolt pump) Unbolt the Power steering Pump, tie it up (through hole in pulley) to something up top for better room at oil pressure sensor etc. 13mm, zip ties
11. Disconnect oil press, VSS, ground if applicable, rear knock sensor (KS has a pig tail that should be a single wire connector near the oil press wires, not at the KS sensor). Remove oil press sens.
12 Remove trans to engine bracket 13mm
13. Remove reverse trans bolt. 18mm, 4 feet of extension
Top
14. Remove fuel rail and SC. 10mm, 13mm
15. Unneeded step to edit out later
16. Unbolt 2 of the 4 engine to tansmission bolts and break the other two free. 18mm
17, Bolt chain to end of front ds head and rear pass head. On end where the alt bracket was located and by thermostat.
18 Put floor jack on front subframe at center of car.
19. Position hoist and hook to chain (leave room to work floor jack.) Putting very light pressure on the chain..lighter you potatohead!
Side
20. Unbolt the main engine bracket to frame. It is about a 27mm bolt that holds the bracket from the engine to the body. Straight up through the A-arm with an extension is easiest. Don't be surprised if it seems loose. Expect the motor to come down 1/2-1 full inch, if not..lower motor 1-2 inches. ~27mm
21. Remove three bolts holding the bracket to the engine/oil pan. One is down and back of water pump, the other two are on the lower side of the oil pan. 13mm, 15mm (ratcheting wrenches will keep you sane)
22. Reattach wheel. 19mm
23. Unlatch hood struts so hood can go farther up. Pool stick/broom handle is a great support.
24. Remove last two engine to trans bolts. 18mm
25 Jack motor a little and pull to passenger side in order to seperate from trans..(too much jacking or pressure will make this harder.
26. Guide motor slowly out of engine bay checking for stragler wires or items..
27. Jack car slightly to slide lift out from under subframe.
28. Put motor on garage floor.
New motor prep
29. Remove rear exhaust manifold, flywheel and all engine pull brackets from new motor.
30 Change any gaskets deemed necessary. It is 1 billion percent easier to do this out of the car.
31. Swap over oil pan, oil filter adapter and knock sensor pigtail, 10mm or 3/8", 13mm
32. Look at two motors side by side as comparison swap any straggler parts. Like rear exhaust manifold/flywheel etc etc.
33. Climb into engine bay. Wiggle, push and rotate converter to ensure it is all the way in and didn't slip out when pulling motor. Orientate so that one bolt hole is in starter area.
34. Reinstall reverse of removal. Use an 18mm shallow socket to install the reverse trans bolt.

Get it in and running. Change oil after 15 minutes of running to get any gasket crap or dirt out of the motor.
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