Wont Stay Started, Won't Run, Going to get Punched. HELP - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 01-06-2009, 07:37 PM   #1
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Default Wont Stay Started, Won't Run, Going to get Punched. HELP

Hey folks-
new to the forum, and in desperate need of help!
Ive got a 95, NOT SSE or supercharged or anything- plain jane. Here'* the problem:
Ran a few errands one day about a month ago, drove prolly about 30+ miles and everything was fine. Car had been running perfectly. Parked it, and when i went out to start it again, it wouldn't stay running. It would fire up, idle fine (RPMs about normal), then choke, shudder and die. No CES light or anything at this point. After some fiddling, checking battery and everything, it still wouldn't do anything. Then it stopped even idleing for a second, the light came on and the chimes beeped when you took out the key.
Here'* where I am now: fires up, idles for about 2 seconds, spurts and sputters, sometimes backfires a bit, then dies.
I have put in a new MAF sensor, no change. Changed the EGR, no difference. Battery is fine, right charge. Plugs were old, not fouled, changed them to new. Am getting spark to them.
I can't find the right scanner - the OBDII scanners wont work as I have the OBDII plug with OBDI guts. I was told by a BS mechanic that it had to be the MAF, but no workie.
I need help guys - how can I test this, or diagnose this without paying to have it towed to a shop to read the code? Any ideas on what else this could be??
sorry for the long post - but I'm stuck in a shitty spot here. I need my baby back!
Thanks in advance-
Justin
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Old 01-06-2009, 08:35 PM   #2
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First, you have what'* called OBD1.5 There should be a fair amount of info on that.

First thing you are going to want to check the the fuel pressure. I'm guessing your fuel filter is plugged, or your fuel pump is going. No fuel to injectors, no run.
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Old 01-06-2009, 09:40 PM   #3
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Thanks - I'll double check the fuel pressure. I was told that it was acceptable, but i will check for myself. What'* a good range to be sitting at?
ASSUMING that the fuel pressure is what it should be like I was told, what would be the next thing to check?
Thanks for the reply - im on my last thread with this damn thing.
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Old 01-06-2009, 09:43 PM   #4
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If fuel pressure is ok, then we can look at your spark. We would need to test the coils and spark plug wires.
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Old 01-07-2009, 12:30 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danthurs View Post
If fuel pressure is ok, then we can look at your spark. We would need to test the coils and spark plug wires.
I did a test of the coils just now as I saw on another site (http://www.*********************.com...hp?f=48&t=1683) and they fell within the acceptable range they had there...
Ive heard a bit about the relays under the hood - but haven't gotten any good ideas about how to test, or even which one(*) to check/replace? Any ideas?

Thanks so much for walking me through this...
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Old 01-07-2009, 08:24 AM   #6
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Well, the only relays I know of that controls the fuel/spark system are on the firewall just behind the strut bar. There are fuses under the drivers side dash that you can check too.
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Old 01-07-2009, 08:38 AM   #7
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Still need to get that fuel pressure tested. That'* still what I think the problem is.
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Old 01-07-2009, 09:33 AM   #8
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Morning guys..

Common enough symptoms. If the fuel pressure is over 30 it should be enough to start and keep the car running. Being that it ran, I'd stray from the plugs and wires at this point. Check for spark, if you have it...consider that good enough for now.

Having spark and fuel rules out the fuel pump and crank sensor. Maf sensors can be checked by unplugging them. It'll set a check engine light, but default the computer to run off tables instead of actual airflow.

ECM is a guess I'd head for. There'* a junkyard in my area that sells them for around $20 (which is what a 94/95 is worth in my opinion). Parts stores in my area stock them on the shelf...that says a bit for how flakey those two years were. All you do is swap your chip from your ECM to the new one and if the car straightens out..it was a bad ecm.
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Old 01-07-2009, 10:13 AM   #9
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There you go. I really should learn more about those series 1s. But I only have so much storage space in my head.
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Old 01-08-2009, 08:28 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danthurs View Post
If fuel pressure is ok, then we can look at your spark. We would need to test the coils and spark plug wires.
Ok so I retested the coils, both primary and secondary windings on all three seem ok- they all come in at .8 and 5.9 or so, with very little difference between them. How would I go about checking the plug wires? Is there a way to check them with a multi meter? I'm assuming you'd be reaing ohms, but in what range?
Any other ideas?
Thanks so much!
Justin
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