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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 10-29-2005, 06:02 PM   #1
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where is the t-stat located....
lookin to change it to 180 on this nice weekend..
a pic would help.. how hard is this to do 1-10
10 being pain in the a$$
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Old 10-29-2005, 06:37 PM   #2
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its a 1 on the scale

see your upper rad hose....follow it to the block...there will be a metal attachment with 2 bolts on it.....that is where the T stat lives
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Old 10-30-2005, 09:16 AM   #3
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so what needs to be done?
is the t-stat that small?

is the tstat right underneath thurr?

remove those 2 bolts and....

could u walk me through this...
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Old 10-30-2005, 09:57 AM   #4
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1. Start with a cold engine
2. Drain off about a 1/2 gallon of coolant. (I use a 3 foot section of vacuum hose and siphon from the radiator into a clean container to reuse) Most drain from the draincock or petcock which is located directly at the bottom on the drivers side of the radiator.
3. Undo those two thermostat housing bolts.
4. Remove old thermostat and clean old paper gasket off housing and block
5. Put new rubber gasket around new thermostat and place into hole where old came out. Pointy side up
6. Align paper gasket and put housing back in place.
7. Start housing bolts by finger and ensure they are threading properly.
8. Tighten to spec.
9 Refill with the coolant allowing air to bleed out of screw on top of thermostat housing.
10. Once flow out of screw is solid fluid, snug screw closed. No need for tons of force. It is brass and will break easy.
11. Top off system and run engine. Top off as necessary.
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Old 10-31-2005, 02:10 PM   #5
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thanks, looks like i will have to get to
it this weekend. to much chit going on
during the week...

oh, i need a paper gasket and a rubber gasket?
they only gave me one.
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Old 10-31-2005, 02:19 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
1. Start with a cold engine
2. Drain off about a 1/2 gallon of coolant. (I use a 3 foot section of vacuum hose and siphon from the radiator into a clean container to reuse) Most drain from the draincock or petcock which is located directly at the bottom on the drivers side of the radiator.
3. Undo those two thermostat housing bolts.
4. Remove old thermostat and clean old paper gasket off housing and block
5. Put new rubber gasket around new thermostat and place into hole where old came out. Pointy side up
6. Align paper gasket and put housing back in place.
7. Start housing bolts by finger and ensure they are threading properly.
8. Tighten to spec.
9 Refill with the coolant allowing air to bleed out of screw on top of thermostat housing.
10. Once flow out of screw is solid fluid, snug screw closed. No need for tons of force. It is brass and will break easy.
11. Top off system and run engine. Top off as necessary.
very good instructions Bill.
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Old 10-31-2005, 03:14 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SUPRCHRGD
thanks, looks like i will have to get to
it this weekend. to much chit going on
during the week...

oh, i need a paper gasket and a rubber gasket?
they only gave me one.
Yes, you need two. Trust me on this. 1 paper..1 rubber. (BTW honestly this should take 1/2 hour or less)

Thanks CC I try.
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Old 10-31-2005, 03:33 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
10. Once flow out of screw is solid fluid, snug screw closed. No need for tons of force. It is brass and will break easy.
I usually warm up the car and get the T-STAT to open before doing this. Can it be done without starting up the car too?
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Old 10-31-2005, 03:54 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
10. Once flow out of screw is solid fluid, snug screw closed. No need for tons of force. It is brass and will break easy.
I usually warm up the car and get the T-STAT to open before doing this. Can it be done without starting up the car too?
FSM says to do it w/o warming up the car. If the screw is partially open and you build too much pressure you will end up shooting coolant all over. Possibly worse..if the screw pushes out the remainder of the way and you lose it.
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Old 10-31-2005, 03:59 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
FSM says to do it w/o warming up the car. If the screw is partially open and you build too much pressure you will end up shooting coolant all over. Possibly worse..if the screw pushes out the remainder of the way and you lose it.
I recheck for air after the engine has been warmed up and driven around the block to move air from heater.
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