Wheel cylinder torx head studs
#11
Senior Member
Certified GM nut
torx
I took mine out with a long nose vise grip and put hex head bolts on I got at the yard. PITA to get a socket in there. Its a lot easier with a box wrench.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Just my 2 cents worth.
#14
Junior Member
Thread Starter
What a hassle this turned into...
I bought what looked to be the female counterpart to a T-40. The female counterparts are not called "T-anything", they're "E-whatever". I eneded up with the E8. Got home, the damn thing didn't fit. Too small. That was on the driver'* side. So, for *&Gs before going BACK to Napa, I tried it on the passenger side. The passenger side had 10 MM HEX HEAD bolts. I was really bent at this point.
So, I tried Boost'* suggestion with the 7 mm socket on the torx head bolts...no go. 7 MM too big. 6 MM was too small. Finally, I ended up getting them off with a 12 point 1/4 box end.
THEN, I went to Napa to return the incorrect tool (the E and bought two fresh 10 MM bolts and locking washers for the driver'* side.
It'* all back together now. I'm still not super happy with the stopping distance, but my 162,000 mile ORIGINAL shoes and wheel cylinders are fresh. And, my front brake pads are new as well. Maybe I have a slowly failing master cylinder....although, I'm not sure of the signs of a failing MC.
I bought what looked to be the female counterpart to a T-40. The female counterparts are not called "T-anything", they're "E-whatever". I eneded up with the E8. Got home, the damn thing didn't fit. Too small. That was on the driver'* side. So, for *&Gs before going BACK to Napa, I tried it on the passenger side. The passenger side had 10 MM HEX HEAD bolts. I was really bent at this point.
So, I tried Boost'* suggestion with the 7 mm socket on the torx head bolts...no go. 7 MM too big. 6 MM was too small. Finally, I ended up getting them off with a 12 point 1/4 box end.
THEN, I went to Napa to return the incorrect tool (the E and bought two fresh 10 MM bolts and locking washers for the driver'* side.
It'* all back together now. I'm still not super happy with the stopping distance, but my 162,000 mile ORIGINAL shoes and wheel cylinders are fresh. And, my front brake pads are new as well. Maybe I have a slowly failing master cylinder....although, I'm not sure of the signs of a failing MC.
#15
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
I had to manually adjust my rears twice after refrshing them this year. Don't count on the auto adjust. Tighten them to the point where you almost can't get the rear drums back on.
#16
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Mark...flush your fluid at all wheels. After I did a brake job and had the power bleeder available I went for it. Wow.. made a huge difference between dirty used fluid and new fluid.
At WCBF WillWren asked what the heck I had on for brakes after he gave them a push.
At WCBF WillWren asked what the heck I had on for brakes after he gave them a push.
#17
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by willwren
I had to manually adjust my rears twice after refrshing them this year. Don't count on the auto adjust. Tighten them to the point where you almost can't get the rear drums back on.
Boost--I'll give your suggestion a shot.
#18
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
The auto adjusters take a few pretty quick reverse stops to do their thing. I've been successful so far. It'* a bit harsher of a stop in reverse than most are willing to do though.
#19
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
The auto adjusters take a few pretty quick reverse stops to do their thing. I've been successful so far. It'* a bit harsher of a stop in reverse than most are willing to do though.