wheel bearings - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 06-14-2006, 07:41 PM   #11
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Thanks for the help. Great detells!
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Old 06-14-2006, 10:20 PM   #12
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Wow that looks identical to the ones on my Malibu.
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Old 06-14-2006, 10:21 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sse1990
Wow that looks identical to the ones on my Malibu.
I think with the newer N bodies they also went to the 5 115 bolt pattern... So it could be the same one ... lol

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Old 06-14-2006, 10:36 PM   #14
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Yeah it is a 5/115 pattern.

When this post was first posted in the 87-91 section, I was not sure what wheel bearings were used on the 92+ cars. It is pretty easy to change the bearings. I have a member on my Malibu forum that is asking the same question. I guess I will have to host those pictures on my server and post this topic to help him out also.
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Old 06-15-2006, 11:07 PM   #15
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It definitly helps to have an air compressor and an impact wrench!!

Before taking the torx bolts off the hub, might not be a bad idea to spray penetrating oil on the bolts, and use heat is needed.
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Old 06-16-2006, 12:04 AM   #16
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While you stop at autozone for the bearing hub, pick up the tool to seperate the hub from the axle. It'* free, just have to leave a deposit.

Some people run into it, some don't,,, but the hub can be a real SOB to "pop" off the axle. I mean like hammer, pounding, and screaming. Plus if it is really stuck, you'll can pull the axle out with the hub, like I did.

It'* nuts not to use it. It takes about 10 minutes to get the hub off.
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Old 06-16-2006, 04:28 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Keith
Definately a bearing, just make darn sure you're replacing the correct one.
Yes.. if you have Trac control, AND abs, the part is (depending on where you get it) in excess of at least $140.. I believe my drivers front was about $175 at pep boys when I bought it back in march. .Soonafter, my passenger side went out. Needless to say, I'm still driving on that bad passenger bearing, until I manager to get enough money to buy it, or my mom can help out. I'm hoping the ladder will occur
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Old 06-16-2006, 04:30 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timothy'* Buick
It definitly helps to have an air compressor and an impact wrench!!

Before taking the torx bolts off the hub, might not be a bad idea to spray penetrating oil on the bolts, and use heat is needed.
Might not be a bad idea? ..This is something that SHOULD be done in a situation like this..or as I always do in any situation involving removing something like that.. I always have a can of PB handy
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Old 06-16-2006, 01:08 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erics95se
Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Keith
Definately a bearing, just make darn sure you're replacing the correct one.
Yes.. if you have Trac control, AND abs, the part is (depending on where you get it) in excess of at least $140.. I believe my drivers front was about $175 at pep boys when I bought it back in march. .Soonafter, my passenger side went out. Needless to say, I'm still driving on that bad passenger bearing, until I manager to get enough money to buy it, or my mom can help out. I'm hoping the ladder will occur
Had the same thing happen.... I replaced one and then 4 or 5k miles later the other one went...

On my 91 I thought the trans was calling the Tranny reaper... I listened as the car shifted weight and the sound changed, the pitch also changed as the bearings got hot... I then jacked the car up off the ground and found that one side had some play in it.... I replaced that hub, when I removed it the hub was blue and the bearings did not roll smooth, there was binding going on...lol... Less than a year later the other side went

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Old 06-16-2006, 01:23 PM   #20
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Sorry to highjack this thread but, can I ask a question? The wire from the speed sensor harness is attached to where the bearing is. My question is, when the bearing came new, the bearing I'm referring to comes with a plastic protective cover, ( mine was blue) is it imperative that the cover be removed before installation? I ask because I didn't remove this cover when I installed both sides and the abs light still remains on. I have noticed absolutely no noise or difference in ride. The only concern is that I was hopping that the worn front wheel bearing was the cause of my abs light being on, and yes the bearing needed to be replaced anyway.
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