what oil filter do you guys commonly use? - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 08-19-2004, 07:15 PM   #21
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I used to use Mobil filters, but then K-mart closed in town and I couldnt get them anymore, so I switched to the Delco. I've used K&N a few times but I cant justify spending almost 10$ on an oil filter.
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Old 08-19-2004, 08:01 PM   #22
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K&N HP-1001.

I spend money on oil related parts.
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Old 08-19-2004, 08:50 PM   #23
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The AC-Delco PF47 is the OE filter on our cars. The "longer" version is the PF52 which will fit nicely in the pre 92 H Bodies since it sits above the cross member of the frame. Their is some debate as to whether it is safe to use the longer filter in the 92+ series cars as it sits a little below the frame.

When it comes to oil and filter changes, this will sound like I'm a cheap SOB. I use a Walmart ST3980(made by Champion) long filter ($1.97 American) with Exxon Super Flo 10W-30 oil (59 cents per quart with a rebate). I change it religiously between 3500 and 4000 miles which averages every 7 weeks. Yeah, I know, I'm going to hell!
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Old 08-20-2004, 04:52 PM   #24
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I'm using the AC PF-47 and Castrol 10-30. Every 3,000 miles.

The longer filter hangs down into harm'* way too much and I don't use it.

Also, I always PRE-FILL the filter before I install it. Don't fill it to the very top, but get it about 1/2 to 3/4 full. Otherwise when you start the engine it is going to run dry until the following things happen: first the filter has to fill with oil, then it has to wet the filter material sufficiently to let the oil pass through, and then in the case of some of these cars, you may also have lost some oil from the cooling lines. I don't know if the cooler is upstream or downstream of the filter.

If you don't think the wetting of the filter material makes a difference, then try filling a filter yourself. Pouring oil into the center hole, it will quickly come to the top and won't accept any more. Wait a minute and then you can add more. You won't get much into it until the material has been wet properly.

Not too many people are doing this, but I would suggest it for any engine.

And there is a little trick to keep the oil from coming out of the filter when you install it, since they don't install directly vertical. If you start rotating the filter before you tip it, and keep rotating it while engaging the threads, you can avoid spilling any oil from the filter. Just keep it turning.
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Old 08-20-2004, 05:03 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TelePlayer
I'm using the AC PF-47 and Castrol 10-30. Every 3,000 miles.


If you don't think the wetting of the filter material makes a difference, then try filling a filter yourself. Pouring oil into the center hole, it will quickly come to the top and won't accept any more. Wait a minute and then you can add more. You won't get much into it until the material has been wet properly.
I agree that it takes a long time to wet the filter when you pour it in, but you are not backing it with 60psi. The oil gets thru the flter pretty dayum quick under pressure. But if you feel better prefilling, by all means don't let me stop you. We all do those 'rituals' that make us feel better at the end of the day.

jay
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Old 08-20-2004, 05:14 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TelePlayer
Also, I always PRE-FILL the filter before I install it. Don't fill it to the very top, but get it about 1/2 to 3/4 full. Otherwise when you start the engine it is going to run dry until the following things happen: first the filter has to fill with oil, then it has to wet the filter material sufficiently to let the oil pass through, and then in the case of some of these cars, you may also have lost some oil from the cooling lines. I don't know if the cooler is upstream or downstream of the filter.
Good point. I thought everybody was taught to do this when they changed their filter. Also, I try to "bump" the engine by flicking the ignition before it starts to get the filter completely full before I start the engine. That'* my ritual.
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Old 08-20-2004, 05:29 PM   #27
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If you want to really cover your bases, try this trick from changeing oil on a turbo charged car. Disconnect the coil, or #1 plug and crank the engine for about 5 sec. This will allow the engine to 'pre-oil'. At least get the oil around a bit before that 1,700-2000RPM spike when first starting.

I know my L98 in my trans am will push about 20-25 psi when cranking.

Jay
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Old 08-21-2004, 11:22 AM   #28
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I live in so, illinois, and the walmart stores in the area carry their own inhouse "brand" of oil and filters. The 'supertech' filters are Ac delcos., and cost 1.97. Check this out man. Ive compared the filters with the blue ac delcos and they are identical right down to the the double TT stamp code on the filter boss. anyway, I have been using these for years in everything.

A few years back i talked to a shop tech at a walmart and asked who'* oil was going into their 'supertech' bottles and at that time it was Quaker state. He also said that every few years bid requests go out to the oil companies and get them to compete.


I dont think they use quaker state any more because the stuff looks and smell diffrent. Ive compared it with most top brands of dino oil and by using the ol sniff, look, touch and uh, taste method, ive found it to be CASTROL. I use castrol anyway, so I have no problem saving alot of money and using this stuff. With oil prices as high as they are, it'* really worth looking into this.


I use castrol 10-40 and ac delco filters in the bonnie. I dont use fram oil filters, but I really think their air filters are better than most. {not including k& n, ect...} I dislike purolaterair filters-{ they have reduced air flow}, and the oil filter design looks like a toy compared to a delco. Purolater do have nice commercials on tv though.........
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Old 08-21-2004, 07:32 PM   #29
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Just to muddy the waters a little, check this out. BTW I use "supertech"
http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.p...hl=my+own+eyes
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Old 08-22-2004, 10:45 AM   #30
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Ranger, thats an intresting testimony. It really doesnt suprise me though. What does suprise me is why they would go as far to formulate diffrent additive packages for each 'Brand'. To me, this would not seem cost effective. The supertech is sold for 88 cents a quart because walmart buys massive quanities on the cheap. This is what Ive been told anyway... This brings up another fundemental question of good biz- why would.. say.. castrol sell walmart millions of gallons of oil for less than 88 cents a quart, to sit on a shelf to compete with their own oil in with their castrol name? If everyone knewand beleived the supertech was really castrol, this would put a dent in castrol profit. to me it makes no diffrence because castrol already made a huge profit by selling volume.

I guess what I am saying is that it comes down to brand prefrence, and the color of a bottle ect.. Ive used the supertech in a chevy truc k{350} for years with no prob. the truck has 238000 and is strong. so i cant say nothing bad against quacker state, uh, i mean castrol, uh, i mean havoline, no i mean, oh whatever.......
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