What causes the engine to "miss" in O/D? updated - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Reply
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-19-2008, 12:17 PM   #11
Senior Member
Posts like a Supercharger
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Orlando Florida
Posts: 182
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
lunchboxx is on a distinguished road
Default

I would follow the already given advice and change the PLUGS and WIRES first. I had a wire that died on me and my 96 ran like A$$. I spent money i didnt need to trying to fix problems that weren't there. Follow Occam'* Razor
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Occam's_Razor
and try to take a Scientific Approach to car repair......
lunchboxx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2008, 01:34 PM   #12
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 281
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
93RedSled-SSE is on a distinguished road
Default

As noted on another thread, cleaning the MAF sensor is quick, easy and cheap. Use special cleaner by CRC for MAFs. Kudos to Sandrock for putting me onto this one.

MAF sensor is black plastic thing, on throttle body, unplug connector, remove 3 phillips screws and it slides out. Should see 2 little short, delicate wires in round hole. Spray clean those. It was like putting on a hoppup kit on mine. Way cool
93RedSled-SSE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2008, 02:03 AM   #13
Senior Member
Posts like a 4 Banger
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Indiana
Posts: 139
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
rstrunk is on a distinguished road
Default

Thank you all very much for the great advise. I never thought about cleaning the MAF sensor. Until i joined these forums it never entered my mind. I also appreciate the detail of how to clean the MAF as well. I will certainly start with plugs and wires and go from there. I will clean the MAF sensor. I have access to coil packs that are in very good shape at no cost. Should I go ahead and use them with that in mind? Also, it takes a 5.5 mm socket for the coil packs? Not just a 5mm but 5.5mm? I've, embarrassingly never seen a 5.5mm before. I guess I can pick one up at Advance Auto or Auto Zone I assume? Again, thank you all for the great advise. I can wait to get into this thing and get her running good!!.


I wish I could find a forum this great to help with my '96 Mercury Sable.
rstrunk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2008, 12:12 AM   #14
Senior Member
Posts like a 4 Banger
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Indiana
Posts: 139
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
rstrunk is on a distinguished road
Default

Just wanted to let you guys know that many of you who predicted that the plugs and wires should be the cure were correct. I made time to change the plugs and wires today and the engine runs great! Funny thing is the wires that were on there were numbered as to what cylinder each belonged to. Leading me to believe that these wires were still the original factory wires that came on the car! The wires had plastic heat shields on them and I thought I'd try to take the heat shields off and put them on the new ones and they were so brittle that they fell apart before I could work them off. haha. Also the plugs were Bosch platinums and looked like crap. I've heard bad things about Bosch plugs. I replaced them with AC Delco plugs and Autolite lifetime warranty wires.

Now the car is running nice and smoothly. I'm a happy Bonneville owner. For now (knock on wood)
rstrunk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2008, 12:25 AM   #15
Senior Member
Posts like a Supercharger
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Orlando Florida
Posts: 182
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
lunchboxx is on a distinguished road
Default

Thanks for the Update..but....You'll be back
If not for repairs...for the MOD bug...LOL
lunchboxx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2008, 12:30 AM   #16
Senior Member
Posts like a 4 Banger
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Indiana
Posts: 139
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
rstrunk is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lunchboxx
Thanks for the Update..but....You'll be back
If not for repairs...for the MOD bug...LOL
haha. I'm sure I'll have plenty of future questions. But for the record, I don't plan on leaving! There is way to much wisdom, advice and willing helpers on this forum to leave! I'll stick around just to continue learning about my car and use the advise I learn for future reference!
rstrunk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2008, 11:19 AM   #17
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: BonnevilleHell
Posts: 0
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
clm2112 is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rstrunk
Leading me to believe that these wires were still the original factory wires that came on the car! The wires had plastic heat shields on them and I thought I'd try to take the heat shields off and put them on the new ones and they were so brittle that they fell apart before I could work them off. haha.
It'* very likely, People never seem to replace plug wires for some reason. The stock wires usually have "Packard" on them (A GM division that made electrical parts...sad...all that is left of the grand old Packard brand) and yeah, the plastic shielding usually does fall to bits after being cooked. When you can, I would recommend getting more of the corregated plastic tubing and replace the stuff that fell apart. It'* not really there for heat shielding, it'* to prevent chafing on the insulation from other metal parts of the motor. When GM really wants to heat shield something, they will do tin work (like the metal sleeves around the plug boots) or use a metalized fiberglass cloth to insulate a part from heat.

Welcome to the wonderfull world of the Bonneville
clm2112 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2008, 02:22 AM   #18
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Good ol' WV
Posts: 82
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
bad.moshi is on a distinguished road
Default

So I seem to be having a similar problem here. I realize now that i've had a few more than anyone would want to... but this is only the second time i've driven it for an extended period of time at interstate speeds.

Driving is generally a breeze, no problems whatsoever until I am going up a hill. When I have to downshift for power, it'* fine, but when it shifts back up (assumingly into OD) it will only go to about 2000 RPMs before it bounces just around 1800, 2000 over and over and sort of jerks the car as if i were pumping the pedal. if I press harder on the pedal or push it sharply, it will downshift and accelerate like a madman. The problem only occurs on the bottom end of the upper gear. Could this be the wires as well or does it sound more complicated?

Like I said, generally it operates fine until going uphill around 65 mph
bad.moshi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2008, 11:50 AM   #19
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 10
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
willwren is on a distinguished road
Default

Most ignition problems are more noticable under load at low rpm'*. That means climbing a hill in OD.

Plugs, wires, coils. 95% of the problems with symptoms like yours come back to one of those three things.
willwren is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2008, 11:30 PM   #20
Senior Member
Posts like a 4 Banger
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Indiana
Posts: 139
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
rstrunk is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bad.moshi
So I seem to be having a similar problem here. I realize now that i've had a few more than anyone would want to... but this is only the second time i've driven it for an extended period of time at interstate speeds.

Driving is generally a breeze, no problems whatsoever until I am going up a hill. When I have to downshift for power, it'* fine, but when it shifts back up (assumingly into OD) it will only go to about 2000 RPMs before it bounces just around 1800, 2000 over and over and sort of jerks the car as if i were pumping the pedal. if I press harder on the pedal or push it sharply, it will downshift and accelerate like a madman. The problem only occurs on the bottom end of the upper gear. Could this be the wires as well or does it sound more complicated?

Like I said, generally it operates fine until going uphill around 65 mph
willwren knows his stuff so take his advice but from my own experience, my car was doing this same thing. i replaced the plugs and wires and the car runs great. Quit doing that all together. So, that should be good news for ya.
rstrunk is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
"Right Side" vs. "Left Side" of Engine cashmgr 1992-1999 3 08-17-2011 11:57 AM
car "jerking" -UPDATED Ryno02 2000-2005 73 01-02-2009 01:33 AM
Regular "miss" in idle after UIM/LIM job Must_Wrench 1992-1999 38 08-25-2007 11:16 PM
Engine miss, check engine light on - NO code mdrose64 1992-1999 12 07-16-2007 12:43 PM
'91 L "snakes" intake on a "C" engine ? padgett 1987-1991 5 07-21-2003 08:12 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:53 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.