1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Weird electrical problem...

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Old 07-17-2003, 04:46 PM
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Default hmm.

my dash goes out too. but I still have radio, but 3 little dashes go over climit control and the defrost. light does on. I think I mite have fixed the problem I used liquid copper on the connectors to the computer behind my glove box (put a dab in each hole, BUT WIPE OFF THE CONNECTOR FULLY!, dont want any crossovers)

-edit, Still had the same problem this morning :( I mite get new battery and wires, I mite also need a new or refurbished dash, Ill go see what GM can do for me tomorrow.
Old 07-21-2003, 12:42 PM
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Default ALTERNATOR

I've had this problem 3 times in a 93 SC SSE. In Each Case it was the alternator going bad. At first it was intermittent, then a few days later it was dead.

I would have a reputable local rebuilder rebuild yours with New AC Delco parts and new bearings. "Factory" even GM rebuilts go to the lowest bidder and have lated about 1 -1.5 years. The one rebuilt with Delco parts lasted 4.5 years.
Old 07-21-2003, 12:49 PM
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Default Re: ALTERNATOR

Originally Posted by Hal
I've had this problem 3 times in a 93 SC SSE. In Each Case it was the alternator going bad. At first it was intermittent, then a few days later it was dead.

I would have a reputable local rebuilder rebuild yours with New AC Delco parts and new bearings. "Factory" even GM rebuilts go to the lowest bidder and have lated about 1 -1.5 years. The one rebuilt with Delco parts lasted 4.5 years.
I have a newer 200 amp DP alt. The system is charging fine. I played with the battery connections a little bit, but didn't actually reseat anything. It hasn't happened for a day or two now. For the time being, I'll leave well enough alone.
Old 07-25-2003, 11:56 AM
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Default Re: ALTERNATOR

Originally Posted by Hal
I've had this problem 3 times in a 93 SC SSE. In Each Case it was the alternator going bad. At first it was intermittent, then a few days later it was dead.
Oh, yeah, now that you mention it, when my second alternator died, I had the same weird dashboard symptoms, because the voltage would occasionally go too low while I was idling at stoplights with the A/C going, etc.

So anyhow, any new developments in this mystery?
Old 07-25-2003, 01:01 PM
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Well, it has been fine for over a week...until this morning. It did it right after I started the car. I popped the hood, tried to move the batt cables a bit, and then it worked fine so far today.

When I get more time I am gonna try some more tests on it, but i think it is the battery connection.
Old 07-25-2003, 03:12 PM
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YES...I have had the same problems...I replaced ALT and BATT along with both POS cables about a year ago...AND what do you know...It'* happening again..

Now sometimes it doesn't get any power at all...NO security light, or Ignition..

Until I play with the BATT cables...

SUCKS...I guess I'll have to replace them again...
Old 07-25-2003, 10:46 PM
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Well, I went to go grab some food about 1.5 hours ago, got in the car, started it up, and then it died! I went to restart it an nothing at all...at first anyways. So I wait a minute and try again. Now I get some juice, but not even close to enough to turn it over. And while I try to turn it over the gauges are going AWOL. Right after I stop trying to turn it over the gauges reset a couple times then settle down.

So now I am a little pissed. I grabbed the 6000LE I had stowed in the garge, pulled it out and tried to jump it to see if that will help. No difference. I have really good cabbles (thumb thickness) but I don't think they could clamp on the batteries very well. Anyways... My roomate stepped out to see why I was still there, and hadn't left yet. I told him. So we grabbed the volt meter and checked the volts on the batt. I was getting about 12.5 at the terminals, 11.5 at the cables on the terminals, and 13.7 when the jumper cables were hooked up. So I had my roomate try to start it while I was reading the volts...see if there was a drain or somethin. He tried and it dropped about 1 volt. But didn't get close to turning over. I had him try again and this time the car started right up.

Now with the car running I moved it so I could get the 6000LE out of the garage (I had the Bonne pulled up to where nothing could get around it). I went out and got a new battery. Dropped it in and prayed. Went to start the car and it kicked right off. No funky gauge readings, no random blackouts, and no dieing engine. I let the car run for about 20 with NO problems at all.

Well, I hope this fixes it because anything else will make me a VERY unpleasant person to be around.

Now for the important stuff. Gotta go try it out and get some food. I'm still hungry!
Old 07-26-2003, 12:38 AM
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Sounds like you got it fixed. I certainly hope so! But, reading through this reminded me of a problem I had with my 95 LeSabre (same 3800 as we all know). On the under hood fuse panel, there was a bolt right in the center connecting the two halves. The LeSabre would cut out occassionally as you all have described, sometimes to the point of killing it. Turns out that that bolt went into a plastic piece, which had broken, allowing the whole mess to corrode. A little light sanding and tightening, and "voila", no more problems.

Just thought it was something you folks could look into...
Old 07-26-2003, 12:44 AM
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I had thought about tracking down the main fuse panels and relays, but the way things were happening I just wasn't sure enough to take the time to mess with it yet. So hopefully this will work. I went for a short drive to the store after I posted my last comment. Everything worked great.
Old 07-26-2003, 12:52 AM
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What was the "bad" battery? Just let us know so we can stay away from it. I have a Sears battery, a die hard. Worked everytime and i have seen good voltage since i bought it.


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