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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 09-12-2006, 09:38 PM   #1
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1998 -- My VATS has acted up earlier sometimes giving the security light for a time while driving and then turning itself off. Sometimes it was in a cycle where I got in and pushed the key in and turned quickly to start and the starter wouldn't crank even though I had not tried 3 times with a bad key--it just didn't crank from the first. I wondered if it was the iginition switch power to the VATS unit that wasn't making good contact--138000 miles.

Now I had the Security light come on and stay on. Car cranks fine, starts fine, runs fine.Just the light'* on. I tried the reprogram someone had listed of turning the key on for 30 minutes at a time, and doing that 3 times. Then the light was off but after 8 seconds it turns back on.

It doesn't act like wires in the steering column or bad key readings. That wouldgive the light from the beginning. And it would lock on the third try to crank.

Now the light is not on when I put in the key and crank. It never is on UNTIL 8 secondsafter the key is in or I start the car.

Is it a bad theft module or a remote access unit as the service manual suggests? This is a LeSabre and does not have content theft protection. This is the VATS unit only---HELP.
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Old 09-12-2006, 11:38 PM   #2
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Old 09-13-2006, 08:33 AM   #3
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Many times the trunk or hood pin switches have faulted and are causing the security light. Check both and let us know if that solves the issue.
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Old 09-13-2006, 10:13 AM   #4
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this car doesn't have the content theft deterrent parts. I ordered it without that stuff.

I'm curious if anyone has had a similar problem and replaced the theft deterrent module alone and let it reprogram to the old key resistance. If this one was getting the wrong resistance range from the key, it would turn on the security light as soon as the key was put in. It doesn't do that--sometimes there'* no light.

Doing the reprogram for the communication part doesn't fix the problem. I'm tempted to get resistors from a security system installer and bypass the key, but I really don't think that'* the problem. I've tried three keys and moving the steering wheel up and down doesn't seem to have any effect like breaking wires would have.
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Old 09-13-2006, 11:35 PM   #5
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Try some lock cleaner/de-icer first. Then you can get the resistors you need at any electronics parts place. GM didn't use normal value resistors but you can combine 2 regular resistors to get it where it needs to be and its alot cheaper than the $15 I've seen places want when I went looking.
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Old 09-16-2006, 07:57 PM   #6
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How do I get the connector off the theft deterrent module? I am afraid to pull hard-don't want to damage it since the car does run with the security light on.

I see a white clip on the one side that catches on a ridge. I lifted that over the ridge. But it doesn't come out. I don't have enough loose wire to pull it out closer to inspect it.
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