Last or two months ago, I posted a thread about the car being difficult to start sometimes. I suspected the starter system.

I've concluded it is not. How? I became more observant the next time it happened. I noticed the SECURITY light glowing for 5-10 minutes, the car was not able to start or crank. But after the SECURITY light went off, the car started like there was no issue. Is htis a VATS issue? I have no idea about VATS and I've consulted TECHINFO but there is not anything on VATS. My key pellet is intact and the key is squeaky clean so that'* eliminated (thanks Toasty for the suggestions)

How do I resolve this?

Do you have a second key?

There'* 2 ways to fix it.

If you want the security system to work then you need to replace the ignition lock cylinder.
If you don't care if the security system works then you can do the VATS bypass.

The bypass will cost less than $2. The new lock cylinder & having keys made will be in $50 -$100 range if you do it yourself. Let us know which way you want to go & we can give more info.

so it is a VATS issue?

I do have a second set of keys, I'll switch it out and see if it helps any.

I like having the security feature but it seems pricey...

Could the VATS bypass be reversed when I decide to fully repair it?

I had to edit my previous post. I said ignition switch instead of ignition lock cylinder.

Yes your problem is with VATS. I checked the price at Advance & the lock cylinder is $35. They give you a key without a resistor pellet. This key is used to cut 2 new keys from blanks with the same resistance pellet as the original key.

Below is a picture of a lock cylinder. If you remove the kick panel from the driver’* side you’ll see two wires in a plastic sleeve coming down the steering column. To do the bypass you just cut these two wires & connect a resistor with the same resistance as your key. You can get the resistor(*) from Radio Shack or any place that installs remote starters.

My car occasionally had trouble starting ont he first try. Then I'd wait three minutes for the security light to go off and it would start. Then the light occasionally came on while driving.

I tried turning the key to on and watching for the security light. It should go off after about 10 seconds or less. If it flashes or stays on whether the car starts or not your theft deterret module may be going into failure mode. One failure mode is that it just doesn't do anything because it thinks it has lost its settings. One poster said that if you cause it to lose he resistance reading while the motor is running the module decides it has failed and quit protecting and blocking starts based on resistance reading from the key.

This seemed a lot easier to me than being upside down under the steering wheel or on the right side behind the glovebox putting in resistors at the theft deterent module. Mine has operated for more than a year now this way. Sometimes the security light is on and sometimes it'* not.

I read one poster who said you cut the wires while the motor is running (I assume one at a time to avoid a short) and the module goes into the one mode thinking it has failed.

okay, I've decided on the VATS bypass.

Is there a specific resistor or is htere a generic? ON the picture Ted said there'* two wires, it looks like three?

Can I have a bit more information?

you need to test you key to get the correct resistance of the 12 that are possible

and that is NOT a Bonneville key cylinder....there are 2 wires and IIRC they have a white coating over them

I don't know what you're seeing that makes you think it'* not for a Bonneville. That'* suppose to be for a 99 Bonneville & I only see 2 wires.

Fuel - I forgot to tell you that the bypass can be reversed.

how would I test the key?

Ted, I see two orange wires and a big black wire? or is that soemthing else?