It'* not really hard to replace, but you need the right tools. Jack up and support the front; remove the RF wheel and inner splash shield. The big crankshaft nut has to be undone (impact wrench makes that easy) if no impact wrench, you can remove the flywheel covers and hold the flex plate still while you use a big lever to undo the bolt. Some have told of jamming a socket and handle on the bolt, then using the starter to undo the bolt. If I tried that, the starter would probably self-destruct. Anyway, once the bolt is out, then the harmonic balancer has to come off (need a puller and three 6mm x80mm (fine pitch) bolts for that). Once the HB is off, unplug the connector, snap off the plastic cover and undo one or two 10mm head bolts, and it'* in your hand. They only cost about $30 and they don't usually set a code when they go bad.

With an impact wrench, the right bolts, and an HB puller, you can have it changed in less than an hour. Doing everything the hard way, maybe three hours.

I thought a cps only affected starting, it shouldn't stall a running engine, right?

Wrong - crank sensor is needed at all times.

It can. And many times it won't set a code, as the PCM is only reading what it sees as an acurate signal from the sensor. Now, if there is a problem with one of the circuits going to the CPS, the 5 volt referance, or the ground for example, and you have a better chance of having a code set.

Just throwing this out there, 3 probs I had with mine in the past thats caused stalling issues for me was a PCM gone bad, a bad ground, and a bad brake booster what was letting fluid get sucked into vacuum lines... Just options

[quote="PEARL_JAM"]It can. And many times it won't set a code, as the PCM is only reading what it sees as an acurate signal from the sensor. Now, if there is a problem with one of the circuits going to the CPS, the 5 volt referance, or the ground for example, and you have a better chance of having a code set.[/quote

Well - I looked into putting a fuel pressure gauge in or a spark indicator, but it comes down to needing it setup so my daughter can check it herself while cranking it while stalled alone in traffic. I took the car out yesterday and could not get it to happen. I checked with several people locally and all seem to agree that my best bet is the CPS. I am under pressure from my family to get this fixed (or sell the car) since it has dragged on so long, so I'm going to replace the CPS and check/clean the battery cables. The two main clues I am going with are that it seems heat related and throws no codes. I'll keep you posted...

I'd say that'* a good way to go if you are under that kind of pressure.

I found a CPS to be bad and causing an intermittant that drove me nuts. (kinda explains my current state of mind)

I would only buy a delco sensor. If you want future problems, go to "The Zone"!

I have had a years worth of good luck with a GP Sorenson from Advance. Zone probably sells the same sensor..Not sure though.

Where is the PCM located? I want to warm it up with a hair blower to try to recreate the problem. Also, is the ECM the same as the PCM?