UPDATE ECC temp is blinking - ? - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 11-12-2005, 10:17 PM   #1
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Default UPDATE ECC temp is blinking - ?

I have re-named this thread because I need to get more views than has been so far..please see the post about the ECC blinking below ...

If you have not done this to your car, please read about my problems and LEARN from them..............

I tore it apart 2 weeks ago and today I started to put it back together again, only I had a few problems or set backs what ever they are called.
1. I took the new EGR tube I bought from Bill and I installed it by memory, (that was not a good Idea) after I screwed it up I found the web thread that says to
Quote:
and using the stock EGR pipe as a sleeve, drive in the rd pipe with a rawhide or rubber mallet.
, yep, I screwed up, I pounded the EGR tube without the old one as a sleeve and never noticed what I had done until I had installed it and ready to drop the UIM on it.
I managed to find a socket that was a tight fit with the ID and I vise clamped it, than using a small crows foot bar I was able to twist it out almost to where it was ment to be.

2. Next stupid mistake was I dropped a UIM bolt between the Alt, Belt tensioner and LIM. It fell so perfectly down a small opening that no matter how hard I tried to get it out with a telescoping magnet I couldn't get it. What made matters worse, the end magnet unscrewed and it too fell into the same opening. I went off to the local Ace Hardware store and bought a couple or replacements.

3. Some how I must have broke a connector that is attached to something under the where the thermostat goes. It is below that area, and has a heat shield that looks like an aluminum foil hose. I didn't break the electrical conection or the snap on the wire connector to it, I broke the snap receiver attached to the part that goes into the head. I am tired and I don't want to look it up in the manual yet to find out what the name of it is.

Other than those problems, everything looks good, the L tube gave me fits but eventually went together. I filled the rad up with water until it came up to the thermostat opening to ensure I had removed most air bubbles. I will check the oil tomorrow to see if there is any water contamination, if there is, then I did something wrong.... I hope not.
I will then get the airbox hooked up, double check all connections, fill the rad up to the top and hook the battery up.

Once that is done, how do you pressureize the fuel system?

Is there anything else I need to do when the computer gets power to it?
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Old 11-12-2005, 10:52 PM   #2
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The sensor that you broke that sits down below to the right of the theromstat housing is the coolant temperature sensor. Its for the guage, and I believe the computer takes readings off of it. You will notice right away your engine will run real rough, and your temp guage won't register. The part itself is $13.00 from autozone because we had to just replace this when I did the intake on my dad'* Bonneville. I broke the same sensor. I honestly didn't see the sensor there!
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Old 11-12-2005, 11:38 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrw1234
The sensor that you broke that sits down below to the right of the theromstat housing is the coolant temperature sensor. Its for the guage, and I believe the computer takes readings off of it. You will notice right away your engine will run real rough, and your temp guage won't register. The part itself is $13.00 from autozone because we had to just replace this when I did the intake on my dad'* Bonneville. I broke the same sensor. I honestly didn't see the sensor there!
when you bought the sensor, did it have the snap receiver on it?
Was it a bear to remove or did it come out without a fight?

and by the way, thanks for the reply....
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Old 11-13-2005, 12:13 PM   #4
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Nick, be SURE to use water as your coolant for the first few days, and also use a tube of the powdered aluminum radiator sealer. I recommend that on all my sleeved UIMs. they all seemed watertight because I used a lot of epoxy on the sleeve, so the sealer is just an abundance of caution.

then, after a couple of days running time, drain the water and use coolant.

I have about 18K on mine with no problems.
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Old 11-13-2005, 01:50 PM   #5
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Nick... Sounds like the job went OK for you. That connector was very tight on my car too. I didn't break it, but came close. What I did was actually compress the sleeve (it'* almost like a wire loom) and push it up on the harness so I could access the ears on the clip.

I have about 10,000 on my UIM from Bob with no problems at all!
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Old 11-13-2005, 05:10 PM   #6
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Sorry to hear you had troubles installing the pipe. Relying on memory can really bite you in the butt - and it won't get better as you get older!

When you installed the upper, was the pipe reasonably centered within the sleeve? You want to make sure that you end up with an air gap around the pipe. As long as the base of the pipe doesn't restrict the flow of exhust gas into the UIM and the top of the pipe is above the edge of the plastic hole, you should be OK. The position of the top of the pipe isn't as critical as it might have been, because Bob'* sleeve should provide extra protection to the plastic, nevertheless, it would be better if it were above the plastic. It probably won't matter much if the pipe is a little chewed up or distorted from your gentle "adjustment" process.

That little temperature sender usually comes out without any troubles. If the new one does not come with sealant on the threads, you might want to use a little of your own to make sure you don't end up with a seep.

You don't have to do anything other than turn the key to pressurize the fuel system.

Thanks for the followup, Nick. Let us know how things go when you fire it up.
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Old 11-13-2005, 05:36 PM   #7
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"nevertheless, it would be better if it were above the plastic."

Bill, I make the sleeve extend into the airflow about 1/2". It'* to provide a little more cooling for the sleeve.
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Old 11-13-2005, 06:23 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrw1234
The sensor that you broke that sits down below to the right of the theromstat housing is the coolant temperature sensor. Its for the guage, and I believe the computer takes readings off of it.
the Temp. sending unit for the ECM has a black and Yellow wire going to it.
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Old 11-13-2005, 07:03 PM   #9
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well I started it and had a nice startup, no problems other than a OEM hose clamp on the upper that would let it seep ever so lightly, quick change to a different clamp solved that problem.
I am having a problem with the the AC now, no COLD air, just blowing HOT air, has me confused, , I must have done something.
As I was warming up the motor I noticed the ECC temp blinking, what is that mean, a code?

any help?
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Old 11-13-2005, 07:13 PM   #10
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YAY! another success for the sleeved upper (I hope).

Nick, please ship your upper back to me at your earliest convenience plus 1 week.

Bob.
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