I decided to replace the UIM manifold and gaskets and so on today.
I am still waiting for the Bob Dillon manifold to arrive, so I decided to start on it.
I began with my Chilton Manual and my tools and found that the manual I have does a so so job in discribeing what to do. I found that there is more to remove that what the book says to remove. And by the way, whoever said that THEY CAN CHANGE THE UIM IN 3hrs must be a wizard. I will have to say that the injectors pulled right out without much effort, I was surprised. The coolant elbow exploded, I didn't know where it was until it was to late. I hope I can remember where everything goes, if I don't I may need some help again.
Another question, what about the bracket that keeps the TB from being removed, I just bent it out of the way, I couldn't find how it is attached.
Anyways, here is the picture of the engine once I removed the LIM, it pays to change your oil faithfully. I change mine every 5,000 miles and this motor has 110,000miles on it.
I have no gasket material to scrape off the heads, it all looks good.
I received a smaller diameter EGR tube from Bill and once I get the LIM cleaned up I will get that into it and then it is reasemble time. I hope the Bob Dillon UIM comes before next weekend, if it is here I will try to put it all back together.

Here are the pics



WITH A RAG CLEANUP

Wish mine looked that good....went ahead and started my LIM gasket swap today. I didn't bust a coolant elbow though.....

Anyways, I've done a UIM in 2 hrs....but that was with out beer. Coolant elbow, just replace that with a rubber hose. The TB bracket has 2 bolts on it right at the bottom above the cross pipe3 for the exhaust. The heat shield it also attaced to the same bolts, you're gonna have to remove that heat shield. It'* a bitch if you don't have the right length extensions and stuff, but it can be done. I need to replace my EGR stove pipe also because I broke it the the last time I had it off. But everything looks dang good for you man!

I have faith in ya that you'll get it all back together right. Best thing to do is to screw in all the old bolts into their holes when you get that part off so you don't confuse them and you don't lose them either. Good luck!

I managed to get the TB out without removing the bracket, I spent to long looking for that other bolt with a mirror, so I just bent it gently out of the way. As far as which bolts go where, they seem to be easy to remember, I hope.
You say you did the UIM in 2 hours, that was remove and install, you are a better man than me. The only way I could get my fuel rail off was to disconect all the wiring from all the sensors and injectors and anything else that was in the way.

Ya that'* the way you have to pull off the fuel rail, undo the 3 screws, disconnect the fuel lines, all the wiring on and around it, and then gently pry it out.

Oh don't forget the vaccum lines.....I know already that I'm gonna screw mine up lol.

The TB is kinda a pain to remove, I left out one bolt the last time I had it out so now when I need to remove it or move the bracket I just undo the screws into the tb and spin it back.

Vacuum lines - I think mine are OK. I remember that one of them needs a little attention and I will look at it when the reassembly begins.

Ya what I'm gonna do I think is buy about 3 ft of each size and replace all the lines and fittings that I can find.

I love my local parts store, because when I did that on my truck, they let me walk in and out with the parts I would need and just kept an open tab for me lol.

Better find that bolt lol.

mine broke into 3 pieces, 1 piece was stuck into the belt tension, 1 pc in the LIM and 1 pc in a bunch of small pcs, it was real brittle. The one in the tension part had nothing protruding out far enough to grab, not that it would have help in removing it. To remove it I took a sharp screw driver and scored it a few times in 2 places, it didn't take much. Once the it was scored, the small piece between the score maks came right out and with that piece removed it seems to relieve the pressure and the rest of it fell out.
Just make sure you don't score the ID of the tensioner deeply or you will cause another problem.

Lookin' good so far, Nick. Folks here have referred to a metal coolant elbow to replace the plastic one. That would be the best, I think. When I did my '95, I could not find a metal elbow, so I bought a new plastic one. Maybe someone will jump in with a source.