Uh oh. Wet carpet, low coolant...(Update) - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 03-03-2006, 02:03 PM   #1
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Default Uh oh. Wet carpet, low coolant...(Update)

Wet carpet in the passenger footwell and coolant'* down a bit. Heater core?

How big a job? doesn't look easy.

Crap!

Edit: Well, the cheapest shop in town wants $550, so I'm doing this one myself. Best news: I bought a brand new heater core on e-bay for $34 delivered, half the price at the parts puppies!

I'm waiting for the core to arive and ordering the hoses. I'll post pics as i do the job.

thanks to all for the advice and pics.
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Old 03-03-2006, 02:05 PM   #2
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Heater Core.

Bitch.

::END TRANSMISSION::
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Old 03-03-2006, 02:11 PM   #3
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Haven't done one in a bonneville. I only hope it'* close to how easy it was on the Ranger. That one was a 15 minute job. I'm afraid the b'ville will be a bit longer and tougher.
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Old 03-03-2006, 02:18 PM   #4
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Evap core is tight...but comes out on the engine side of the firewall...

First thing..ensure you have the spring clamp for hoses tool. W/o it and you will need to be a magician to get the clamps behind the strut tower. I'm almost postivie it has to come out under the dash. Can't remember is we have an access or if it'* the dash.
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Old 03-03-2006, 02:28 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Evap core is tight...but comes out on the engine side of the firewall...

First thing..ensure you have the spring clamp for hoses tool. W/o it and you will need to be a magician to get the clamps behind the strut tower. I'm almost postivie it has to come out under the dash. Can't remember is we have an access or if it'* the dash.
HEATER core Bill, lol.

Your instructions are for the right one though. My guess is that it would be under the dash, as is typical. But again, I've not done my b'ville and don't have any of my ref mat'ls with me at the moment. I'm sure some others with experience will chime in soon. If not, I'll look it up later tonight.
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Old 03-03-2006, 02:38 PM   #6
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Lash..see the .... and double space. Two different thoughts.

Mention Evap core here....

Talk about heater core here...

(The Florida sun must be cooking you today..lol)
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Old 03-03-2006, 02:45 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Lash..see the .... and double space. Two different thoughts.

Mention Evap core here....

Talk about heater core here...

(The Florida sun must be cooking you today..lol)
with no segue? You aSSumed we knew you changed subjects??

Just bustin' chops...

Sorry for the "off topic" Bob D.
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Old 03-03-2006, 09:07 PM   #8
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Well, I checked my Chilton manual and it'* next to useless. i recognize nothing in the few line drawings it has.

I did get some aluminum sealer into the radiator and it seems to have stemmed the tide for a while. Radiator is pressurizing and no leak in the footwell.

But that'* just buying a little time. guess I'll have to depend on my buddies here to help.
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Old 03-04-2006, 12:39 AM   #9
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Here'* is a little bit of information that should save you about 8 hours.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RMac
.....As far as fixing the door - don't see how it can go bad it is only flat piece of plastic with has a lever to move, unless you break off the lever there should be no problem.

As for needing to remove center console and dropping dash to repair - Not necessary.
I have 95 SSEi and just did the core - forget the GM manual for help. It is tight to change the heater core but only need to remove HVAC controller, Air Mix Motor and Cover for core and two hose clamps from engine compartment side. Pull rug and padding back for some clearance......





Hope this helps.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bill buttermore
A cable tool like the one shown on the right below makes quick work for clamps in tight spots.



This one is a Mayhew - costs about $65 from the Mac tool man.
You really have to have a cable clamp tool or you'll spend all day on those &$#*( clamps.
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