i had the similar problem with an 88 SSE.. had to depress the gas twice to unlock the converter.. that was strange.. if it is jolting going up hills.. you may need to change out your O2 Sensor, and.. check your ignition coils.. i had to do that with both of my Bonnevilles.. i currently have a 95-ssei, with enough new parts on it to call it a new car.. including a new transmission after 88k miles.. when it jolted up hill, the O2 sensor was the problem.. my new Xmission works perfectly, no problems what so ever.. you may have a transmission flaw, but, if you haven't checked the sensor and coil, i would do that... Good Luck..!!

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: craigpr on 2002-03-14 14:37 ]</font>

Kressdog: no.. not that i remember.. on the 95ssei, the SES light came on when it started jolting/missing up hills in OD.. the O2 sensor replacement fixed that.. and your problem seems consistant with the 88 sse I had.. letting up and depressing the gas the 2nd time would allow it to unlock the TC.. but.. it still would jolt now and then, even in town.. i think the supercharged models have a different Xmission.. good luck..

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: craigpr on 2002-03-15 12:49 ]</font>

I'VE SEEN THIS ALSO HAPPEN WITH A WEEK COIL PACK OR BAD WIRES! JUST A THOUGHT!!!

mine does it too. can anyone else verify the coil pack solution? i was thinking more along the lines of a bad TCC solenoid, plus adding a transmission cooler helped a little bit...

_________________
1992 Bonneville SE
~245,000 km

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Greg on 2002-04-29 06:32 ]</font>

any updates Kressdog? is the problem still fixed? how did you find out which coil pack was weak?

ok, i replaced all my coil packs today. idle smoothed out a bit after i drove it around, no repeated bucking in lockup yet...

i'm doing some deliveries tonight and that'* usually when it acts up the most since things tend to heat up a lot, i'll keep you posted.

Greg

The car is still running great. As to how to tell which pack may be weak I had my brother who is a mechanic fix the car and i'm not sure how he knew which one to replace. I'm sure that there is a test that someone knows about. The next time I see my brother I'll ask him how he did it and report back.

replaced, twice. vacuum lines leading to canister and modulator were rusty so i replaced them, still no luck.

ok. it appears i might have solved the problem.

labour: 30 seconds @ $0.00 = $0
parts: $0.00

1) take off intake manifold plastic cover that says '3800 tuned port injection'.

2) if the wires leading to cylinders 2, 4 and 6 have direct contact (i.e. are pulled flat against) with the intake manifold, reposition them so that they lay in the little hook in the PCV valve cover. you may have better luck with wiring looms. if the wires are already there....well then.... your (and probably my) problem lies elsewhere, probably.

my guess is that the heat from the intake manifold is creating too much resistance in the wires. i can almost verify this, because it doesn't matter how hot the transmission gets, it'* how hot and worked up the engine is. for example if i sat in front of the engine and pressed on the throttle cable from idle to WOT over and over again until the temperature got well above 90*C (the first big notch on the gage, where it usually sticks around) and took it for a drive, the chugging problem would be terrible.

i'll drove about 200 km today, very intensely, and there wasn't a single hitch, however i will keep driving and keep everybody posted.

did some deliveries tonight. it'* still doing it.

i think i'm just going to ignore it.