Transmission Fluid change - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 12-10-2007, 06:35 AM   #21
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Kris, contact driverjohn2005 for the name of the shop he used. He got a great build.

Mine is a bit too far for you.
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Old 12-10-2007, 12:29 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPOILEDRED94
correct me where I am wrong: warm the trannsmission, drain the fluid, replace the filter, use existing filter seal.
Why would you use the "old filter seal"? Could it be your problem, not sealing good and letting air get to the pump.

ROD
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Old 12-10-2007, 01:27 PM   #23
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Will, hey thats much appreciated. With the few months I hopefuly have left on this trans I should be able to get it together. I ll contact him when I get home from work. Smile. rrounds, I was working per the bc techinfo. Getting the old seal out is almost impossible. You have to break it up to get it out. The filter/seal is a press fit and mine went in very tight. I assume if it had come loose it would fall all the way out and I d have a big noisy mess going on. Wink...
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Old 12-11-2007, 04:31 AM   #24
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I think I can make this work for a lot of people. Guys at work frown on biz going elsewhere. And that includes the pro shops we supply. On the other hand none of them are performance based. Just basic transportation issues. But I can order good parts at work and if I can get a honest price on the tranny too... That and keep the work in the clan here. I get a good feeling about the depth and spirit here. Smile
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Old 12-11-2007, 03:15 PM   #25
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The absolute best tranny flush i have used is a product called Varnasolve. It is manufactured by Summit chemicals.I was first introduced to this stuff while doing a stint as a service manager for an air compressor company that dealt in rotary screw compressors. Screw compressors use ATF and not unlike out cars, are subject to high heat which destroys the ATF and causes varnish and a resulting drop in performance. Having been exposed to many "snake oils" over the years, doubted the performance claims for this product. We opened up a screw unit, was black to yellow with varnish buildup. Closed it up, added the Varnasolve and ran it for a couple of days. When we opened it up again, it looked facotry fresh. I have sucessfully used Varnasolve in all my AT'* with the same results. You would have to go to a REAL air compressor place to score this stuff. And, if you have the resources, put a drain plug in your tranny pan while its off, makes it real handy to do fluid changes in the future and allow you to just change the fluid every couple of months without dropping the pan.
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Old 12-13-2007, 12:47 PM   #26
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Is there a good chance this will work? Are you sure its safe ? There are a total of 3 hits for this on google. Via my cell phone anyway. There is a hit for a place in TX that sells it wholesale but I dont need a pallet of it. My phonebook has 0 listings under aircompressors. Can you ship me 3 gals 57, if I paypal you the dough?
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Old 12-14-2007, 03:22 AM   #27
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I have often wondered why the trans pan has no drain plug. The pan is like an 1/8 in thick. Good for drilling not for threading. What do I do..? Weld the nut to the inside of my drilled hole?
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Old 12-14-2007, 07:19 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPOILEDRED94
I have often wondered why the trans pan has no drain plug. The pan is like an 1/8 in thick. Good for drilling not for threading. What do I do..? Weld the nut to the inside of my drilled hole?
Here are three reasons I can think of: First, it would cost GM another $0.20 to provide one that could otherwise go to profit. Second, for most folks who service the transmission at the factory recommended intervals, by the time you remove the pan, there are a lot of particles that have built up there. The only way you can get those out and prevent some of them from being re-circulated is to drop and clean the pan and the magnet. Third, you need to drop the pan to change the filter.

If you were going to do a pan drain plug, you might consider welding or brazing a fine thread nut to the rear vertical outside surface of the pan, perhaps in one corner or the other. You could locate that much closer to the bottom of the pan (to leave fewer dregs in the pan) without exposing the nut to accidental damage/removal if the pan scraped over an object. Corner placement would allow you to jack one front corner just a bit higher than the other to encourage even more complete draining.

Where it would be really nice to have a drain plug is on the torque converter. Some cars do have these as well as a drain plug in the pan. In that case, an access opening is provided in the bottom of the bell housing allowing a fluid change to renew almost all of the fluid. If you were installing these on your own, you would probably need to do two or three of them to ensure the balance of the TC was not compromised.
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Old 12-14-2007, 12:34 PM   #29
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You can buy a pan with a drain in it (aftermarket).
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Old 12-15-2007, 01:17 AM   #30
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Replaced the transmission modulator. No biggie the direction of the bracket was confusing. Put it in and went clockwise 2 turns. ...no gear engage ment ... 2 more clockwise... Locks up in all gears! Took another 1/2 turn drives real nice. Thanks BC!
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