I read it in the 95FSM at one point, but don't recall what it said about it now.

I run the viscosity controlled 28000gvwr unit year-round with no problems in the NW (performed great over the winter). Keep in mind if it still takes too long to heat up in the NE, it can be partially blocked off for winter.

I ran a Hayden cooler and a Hayden fan. I bought the cooler and installed it, but it wasn't cooling enough when sitting still, so I added a fan. It was about $65 for the cooler, and another $60 for the fan. I ran a standard Bosch-style relay, and I have it triggered off of the driver'* side fan. There'* a spot on that fan that'* easily accessible, and you can plug a spade connector right to the connector block on the fan. You'll see the exposed wire soldered on this block. It works for me, as when it'* hot enough for me to need the cooling fan (most of the time in Houston), I'll have the A/C on, which triggers both fans, thus turning on my trans cooler fan. The relay is about $5, and a Bosch relay connector is all of $1.50.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=330-075

With that connector, cut the red wire off (not needed). Connect the black to ground. Connect the blue directly to the battery positive (I used a big ring connector). You may also consider adding an inline fuse. Connect the yellow to the positive wire on the fan itself, which on my fan is the black wire . You would connect the other fan wire to a ground source. Connect the white to the power source that will turn it on, which in my case is the driver'* side fan. You could also rig the white wire to anything else that is 12+ when you want the fan on. This is the easiest way to make a circuit that doesn't involve tapping into another circuit and overloading it. You can see the white wire that comes across the radiator fans to the relay, and the relay itself to the left of the battery, creativly hung with a tie wrap. I wasn't going for the cleanest install, just one that works. I could certainly hide the wiring better for an invisible install.

As far as I know, the trans isn't looking for a specific level, and I've seen it read as low as 80* on my scan tool....I haven't actually been curious to see what it is after sitting overnight.

If the fan is too much, like I've said before already.....Just unplug it in the cooler months, quick simple and easy.

After sitting overnight, your trans temps are the same as external temps.

On the unplugging or replugging of the fans. If your cooler keeps trans temps at 75F in 0F external temps, then you will not need to worry about the fan...it wouldn't try to come on until 175F according to the information we have. The problem would be blocking it off from airflow to keep the fluid warmer and get it up to 140-160 operating temps.

Do what everyone else does in the colder climates when their cars don't run warm enough for them, cardboard it.

Had my scan tool with me this weekend while I was up at Marty'* place, and monitored my trans temps the whole way home....

You can read my trip, and see how far I was into my trip home, as well as EXT. Temp and the temp on my scan tool. Keep in mind, I'm only running the stock coolers right now.

I spiked 215* F right before I got home on the 3 mile 50MPH cruise accrossed town from the freeway.

15 miles or so into my trip:


62 Miles into my trip:


I definantly need to get a bigger cooler in....I don't like those temps.

Feedback?

Forget the fan cooler posted here. Get the cooler I have.

What were your temps before you picked up a cooler?

Close to yours with the stock cooler and aftermarket cooler in front of it. 190° was normal on hot days.

Now I run 160-175 on hot days. That fan controlled unit will let it spike too high before cooling.

I forgot to add, that I had the cruise set at 73 mph the whole way home, and never had to slow down at all or stop. I didn't turn my cruise off for 125 miles actually.