1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

tranny problems...its an ignition problem...FIXED w/pics

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Old 03-20-2005, 11:03 PM
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Glad you fixed it.

You dive right in to your work, don't you?
Old 03-21-2005, 08:49 AM
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You removed the strut tower brace for the job....good man! I remove it too when I do the plugs on my car as well.

As for clearing the check engine light, take it to AutoZone. Their scanner can clear the light for you. Before they clear it, make note of what the codes are, however.
Old 03-21-2005, 12:06 PM
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You dive right in to your work, don't you?
If I am going to get dirty I am going all out. you should have seen me after I changed the oil yesterday.



You removed the strut tower brace for the job....good man! I remove it too when I do the plugs on my car as well.
While stratling the engine I made a comment to my dad, about how much harder it woudl be since my arms were rigth where the tower brace would have been. are those bolts supposed to be torqued? We cranked on them pretty good. Are the bolts that hold the struts in supposed to be torqued? I stuck the wrench on those and managed to turn each about 1/4 a turn. Seemed wierd to me.

As for the stereo... is it a stock unit?
Yeah it is...but the LCD display light is out so resetting stations in impossible unless I manage to find a spot where the sun is at the right angle to shine on it. Which I have only managed to do twice inthe months that is has been out.

As for clearing the codes. I plan on going back sometime soon, just to look around. So I will have a chance then. The code that was displyed was PO300 so hopefully that is the only one in there.
Old 03-21-2005, 12:27 PM
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I've never removed the strut bolts. The torque value for those are in a Chiltons or Haynes.

As for the brace, when I remove it, I just tighten it down. I don't torque it, and to be honest, I have never looked for a torque value. Just good and snug is good enough for me!
Old 03-21-2005, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by vital49
I've never removed the strut bolts. The torque value for those are in a Chiltons or Haynes.
I didn't either but they seemed kinda loose.
Old 03-21-2005, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by corvettecrazy
Originally Posted by vital49
I've never removed the strut bolts. The torque value for those are in a Chiltons or Haynes.
I didn't either but they seemed kinda loose.
Never checked mine to be honest with you. I will the next time I'm under the hood, though!
Old 03-21-2005, 06:34 PM
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SO my dad got some belden 7mm wires today...Damn that #4 wire is long.

Checked them all with my multimeter. The long ones were in the middle/ low 500'*
the middle length ones were mid to high 300'* and the little one was high 200'*. In ohms of course.

I'm happy with them. I need to get some wireloom and redo their placement and such but I ran out of time today. (plus no wireloom yet)



That black plastic piece on the bottom of the front valve cover...does that come off?? It would make it easier to redo the wiring. I either have to do that or take off the engine hoist piece.
Old 03-21-2005, 06:43 PM
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That piece does come off. It actually slides down onto the valve cover. It snaps into position as it'* home position.
Old 03-21-2005, 06:47 PM
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so basicly pull parallel the the side of the valve cover. Which is almost straight up and at you if you are standing in front of the car.


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