Tranny prob split from Dual Electric Fans Not Working - Page 4 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 05-01-2007, 11:16 PM   #31
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Mike..let'* also have him check each resistor.
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Old 05-01-2007, 11:30 PM   #32
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Easy enough if he has a meter. You can see in his picture that each resistor is .65 ohms.
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Old 05-02-2007, 10:12 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technical Ted
Do you have a voltmeter or 12 volt test light?
If so tomorrow I'll post some pics showing what to check.


Yes, I have a voltmeter, ampmeter, etc. and a test light. The only problem is that I'm not particularly proficient in the use of these meters. But all the really bright colours looked great when I bought them!

Frankenberry
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Old 05-02-2007, 04:03 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technical Ted
I'll bet a 6 pack it'* the coolant temperature sensor. Isn't there 2 of them?



There'* a sensor located underneath the throttle body that screws into the intake manifold. I took the harness off the switch (which has two wires going to it) and crossed the connector with a paper clip, started the car and both fans started turning within seven seconds and continued to turn for thirty seconds until I shut it off. Is this the coolant temperature sensor you're talking about, Technical Ted?

There'* a second sensor that'* located on top of the intake manifold towards the firewall (driver'* side) that has a huge crack in the top. Is that the second temperature sensor? If so, looks like that one is actually broken.

The way I see it, this is my second confirmation that both fans operate. Boosty, buddy, ol pal of mine..................could you pick up those at your supplier for me, pretty please?
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Old 05-02-2007, 04:47 PM   #35
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Frank Buddy you are doing good... Sometimes its good to walk away from it and gain a new perspective later on.... You are making progress buddy...

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Old 05-02-2007, 04:51 PM   #36
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Don, I'm starting to think this car is a Pandora'* Box.


If not that Murphy;* Law came into play when I picked up this car. As I mentioned before, once something has been fixed, it stays fixed.

Should I put in a temporary toggle switch to bypass the temp. sensor as Boosty suggests or just change the sensors when I get to NEBF?

And yes Don, you were right to say walk away and gain new perspective.


Boosty.........you there?
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Old 05-02-2007, 04:52 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Mike..let'* also have him check each resistor.

Is Techncal Ted........Mike?
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Old 05-02-2007, 07:10 PM   #38
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Yep, Mike is my real name. Technical Ted is a nickname from work.

It sounds like you're doing a great job getting this narrowed down. I don't know which of the two sensors is for the fans. I'll bet another 6 pack it'* the one you jumped & got the fans to run. You could pull the connector on the other & see if that disables the temp. gauge.

You could also pull both sensor & put them in a pan of boiling water. Once they have a chance to get hot pull them from the water & compare the resistance with an ohm meter. On second thought they may not be a good idea if one is cracked.

My son just got home with the car so I'll go try a few things.
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Old 05-02-2007, 07:26 PM   #39
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Mike, now that I'm thinking more clearly, the second temperature sensor is screwed into the side of the rad, closest to the battery right? So I wonder what the other sensor is for? I'm talking about the one located on top of the intake manifold, towards the firewall, drivers side, pointing straight up. around 8 inches from the temperature sensor I crossed the conection to get the fans to work.
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Old 05-02-2007, 07:30 PM   #40
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The one in the radiator is for the Low Fluid Level sensor...

Can you get a Pic of the other one?

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