1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Ticking since last oil change

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Old May 7, 2010 | 08:04 AM
  #11  
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Forgot that step.
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Old May 7, 2010 | 08:16 AM
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Like me...when you type it up, I bet there'* so muich you do naturally that it'* just an oversight in typing.

Gave me a chance to bust yer chops a little. You know too much and the little stuff is too easy to remember some of what your hands do automatically
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Old May 7, 2010 | 08:24 AM
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Ya, I can see it all in my head. Guess I was only looking at the lifter change and forgot about a few steps to get there. But all and all, it'* not a hard task. Figure 3 hours or so total. No special tools needed other then a torque wrench.
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Old May 7, 2010 | 08:42 AM
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Yea, Bill. I don't trust myself to rip apart the top half of my engine alone. Whenever I have the extra funds to pick up the LIM gaskets, a gasket set, some lifters, and enough delicious beverage for two people, you'll be hearing from me.

Tom, I'm currently using Castrol GTX 10W30. If I go 2,500 more miles without getting the parts I need, I'll try the Castrol HM oil.
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Old May 7, 2010 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Nighthwk12
take off LIM, take off rockers, pull out push rods, pull out lifter, assemble in the reverse process.
hey I had all the steps first.
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Old May 7, 2010 | 09:57 AM
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You sure did.
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Old May 7, 2010 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by SignOfZeta
Tom, I'm currently using Castrol GTX 10W30. If I go 2,500 more miles without getting the parts I need, I'll try the Castrol HM oil.
Its worth a try its a terrible sound to have to listen to.
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Old May 7, 2010 | 01:10 PM
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That'* what cracked me up...Justin posts it well. Dan stopped in later and shortened the procedure.
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Old May 8, 2010 | 10:31 PM
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I've heard its very rare for a 3800 lifter to fail. It may get stuck, which is what might be happening here. I have this exact same problem, and its actually extremely annoying. The engine idles rough, as in there'* a vibration, and the vibration continues while accelerating, although only during certain rpm ranges. It goes away at anything above 4000 rpm.

In any case, if the lifters are stuck, why not just take them out, pull them apart, soak them in kerosene or lacquer thinner, clean them up nicely, put them back together, and be on your way? Worst case you can replace the pushrods, and you should be on your way. Quite a lot cheaper to clean out your existing lifters than to replace them all. They're around $10 each and you need 12!

This is of course, assuming they are stuck. If the springs have weakened or if they can't hold oil pressure (never heard of it happening on a 3800 lifter), then you'd naturally have to replace them.

I'll be taking all of mine apart and cleaning them up before I drop $120 for new ones. Already tried seafoam and rislone engine treatment, and the tick is still there. Next step is to replace all of the pushrods and clean the lifters.

Speaking of pushrods, have those checked out as well. Make sure they're not worn at the ends and that they aren't bent in any way. Apparently its common for these things to wear after a while and get a tad bit shorter, and noisier.
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Old May 10, 2010 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by xtremerevolution
I've heard its very rare for a 3800 lifter to fail. It may get stuck, which is what might be happening here. I have this exact same problem, and its actually extremely annoying. The engine idles rough, as in there'* a vibration, and the vibration continues while accelerating, although only during certain rpm ranges. It goes away at anything above 4000 rpm.
My idle isn't rough, but it'* not perfectly smooth either (can't feel it, but you can see a little flutter on the tach). I just replaced the vacuum tubing, but that changed nothing.

Originally Posted by xtremerevolution
In any case, if the lifters are stuck, why not just take them out, pull them apart, soak them in kerosene or lacquer thinner, clean them up nicely, put them back together, and be on your way? Worst case you can replace the pushrods, and you should be on your way. Quite a lot cheaper to clean out your existing lifters than to replace them all. They're around $10 each and you need 12!

This is of course, assuming they are stuck. If the springs have weakened or if they can't hold oil pressure (never heard of it happening on a 3800 lifter), then you'd naturally have to replace them.

I'll be taking all of mine apart and cleaning them up before I drop $120 for new ones. Already tried seafoam and rislone engine treatment, and the tick is still there. Next step is to replace all of the pushrods and clean the lifters.

Speaking of pushrods, have those checked out as well. Make sure they're not worn at the ends and that they aren't bent in any way. Apparently its common for these things to wear after a while and get a tad bit shorter, and noisier.
I don't have the tools or experience to dig down that far, but I'd like to. Cleaning the lifters and replacing any worn pushrods may solve this problem. I'll pop off the valve covers and inspect the springs when I get a chance.

It'* been a while since I've run some Seafoam through. I'll pick up a can with my next oil change.
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