1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Tensioner replacement

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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 07:01 PM
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Default Tensioner replacement

When the '96 was under warranty, the dealer replaced the tensioner. It is some aftermarket piece ## ####. The pulley looks out of line to me, so I'm replacing the whole thing.

I searched and didn't find too much, even the FSM doesn't have a lot.

It looks like I have to drain the coolant. Release the belt. Remove the alternator. Unhitch the coolant lines, and a few bolts. And it should come out.

I usually do "ready, fire, aim" with repairs. :? So, is there anything else to it? Or anything that has to be done to set the tension?

Thanks.
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Old Nov 1, 2007 | 07:24 PM
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Thats about it. You should replace the plastic coolant bypass elbow while you are at it too.
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 10:36 AM
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FYI..... follow up... that aftermarket tensioner was a terrible piece of engineering. The part of the bracket which held the pulley was warped. There were metal shavings in the taps on the assembly when I pulled the bolts. Including the pulley bolt.

These posers are easy to recognize, they have white centers (instead of black) with no tension markings like the OEM. I checked, and my local Advance has them. I would beware of them. FWIW, the NAPA piece I got was fine and it had the metal pulley instead of the plastic/rubber one. This is not the kind of part I, personally, would boneyard, so I paid the freight.

Another positive outcome of a good tensioner was that it also cured the ubiquitous hint of power steering pump "whirr".
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