Supercharger went bad? - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 10-07-2006, 09:42 PM   #1
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Default Supercharger went bad?

Hey my supercharger seems to be making an odd rattling sound....sounds almost like i dropped something in when i was adding oil the other day, kinda like something is knocking around inside. Do these superchargers go bad quickly, does mine need replacing or is this just a quirk from old age? Its seems to be providing about the same amount of boost as it usually does.
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Old 10-07-2006, 10:16 PM   #2
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Sounds like the coupler is prolly rattling

I haven't done mine yet but there are others that have
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Old 10-08-2006, 01:58 AM   #3
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Coupler?
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Old 10-08-2006, 02:02 AM   #4
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You have to unbolt the supercharger nose drive from the supercharger housing and it'* inside. It couples the pulley shaft with the rotors. Its made of plastic with 6 holes to catch the 3 pins in each shaft. It must also absorb some of the vibration from the straight cut rotors gears and the nose drive shaft bearings.
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Old 10-08-2006, 02:16 AM   #5
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Here'* what you need (I believe there is supposed to be a gasket too, but I am not seeing it on their website -perhaps www.ZZPerformance.com has the gasket or kit with the gasket):

http://www.intense-racing.com/Mercha...tegory_Code=IF
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Old 10-08-2006, 02:28 AM   #6
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How about we actually troubleshoot this one? Instead of talking about HOW to do it?

Remove the SC belt and rotate the SC back and forth by hand. Do you feel any play?

Moving this topic to Forced Induction.
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Old 10-09-2006, 05:06 PM   #7
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Remove the supercharger belt and rotate the pulley back and forth quickly using your hand. Listen for clicking and feel for looseness when you change the rotation direction. It'* probably better to try this when the supercharger is cold, because my experience has been that even with a new coupler, there was a bit of looseness and clicking when I performed the test while the supercharger was warm, but that wasn't the case when the supercharger was cold.
Before replacing anything, it'd also be a good idea to look to see if the snout oil seal is leaking (look on the underside of the snout), and check the supercharger'* oil level and condition.
Note that if your supercharger has 126k miles on it, and it turns out that it needs a new coupler, it might be a good idea to replace the oil seal and bearings at the same time as the coupler, especially if the oil seal is leaking.
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Old 10-09-2006, 05:17 PM   #8
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Welcome to the club.

Quick question, where are you located? We may have members nearby to help you troubleshoot it.

The coupler will feel like a bunch of play as WillWren and Billha describe. Also turn the pulley round and round, does the issue feel like a bad bearing. If everything seems good with the supercharger, turn each of the pulleys on the rest of the motor by hand and feel them for play.

Another possibility is to pick up a stethescope (I got one at Sears in the auto section) and use it to listen to the various items to determine the problem area.

Not sure I agree with changing nose drive and other bearings at the same time as the coupler, but it wouldn't hurt.
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Old 10-10-2006, 08:30 AM   #9
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Im actually at Virginia Tech, im a student here. My car is in a parking garage while its broke down, and im goign out to day to remove the belt that isnt broken. I have to remove my AC compressor and install a new one, but that is another story. Ill check the pulley while im out there and give yah guys an update. Thanks for your help.
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Old 10-10-2006, 08:51 AM   #10
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BTW.. I think we forgot to mention. Being a 98 and a Series 2 engine. You can pull the supercharger belt off and run without it for the time being. It won't hurt anything except maybe a little mileage.
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