I pulled the master cylinder from the brake booster to check to see if there was any leaking occuring. I have noticed braked fluid on the ground after sitting a while. It ended up being a loose connection.

Anyway, I can't get the air to bleed out of the lines. The drivers front and passenger rear wheels bleed fine , but the pass front and drivers rear won't. The brake pedal doesn't even budge when bleeding those two and just spurts of fluid come out. The brakes worked fine before I took the master cylinder off and undid the brake lines.

How can I get these brakes to bleed out. It acts like it has hardly no brakes now. Do I need to bleed the traction contol somehow????????

Well, have you bled the system correctly...as in "the sequence"..And have you bled the master cylinder itself?

You should start bleeding from the right rear to left rear to right front to left front...assuming there is no air in master cylinder...if you suspect yes, then bled master FIRST...good luck

Also verify you are actually BLEEDING..ie no more bubbles....completely

How exactly do you bleed the master cylinder???? Maybe it has air in it still. I did the correct sequence and have bleed probably 2 pints of fluid out to no good...

Are you using a piece of tubing and the jar method??..it is usually the best..
if so then...did you run the master dry..or very close to dry when bleeding?

if not then...did you remove brake lines at the master?
reply back..

I did use a homemade version of the hose and jar. I DID remove the brake lines from the master cylinder which is why I think it has air still in the lines. And when bleeding I let the fluid level get to about half full, then added more 2 other times to not let it run too low when bleeding.

AND...you don't and didn't have leaks before?? as in wet pistions on calipers..
if not then I would say to bleed your master...

No leaks anywhere that I can find. It seems to me that I still have air in the master cylinder. How do I bleed it?????? Maybe I can try bleeding it, then bleed the wheels in sequence again. Do I need to do any bleeding of the antilock-brake unit?????

Well as far as I know...You have to "bench" bleed it...That means you have to remove master...and bleed it then...The piston in the back doesn't engage ALL the way into the master when it is mounted on the car...SO therefore you must dismount it and then plug BOTH holes on master....and then fill reservoir...and then BLEED each connection point...NOW having said that..I have seen fittings that will thread into your master and have a "nub" on the other to slip tubing over it..just like bleeder screws...so if you still follow me...Attach tubing to one Bleeder on then with a screwdriver push in piston of master...ALL the way...procede to bleed...then repeat with other connection...Then you must not let the fluid level to run dry...THEN you must bleed EVERY thing else again...in sequence...whey....my fingers hurt

Thanks for the advice. I will give that a try. I will probably just go ahead and replace the master cylinder with a new one anyway, since I still think it has a small leak (betwen it and the booster)....

Well now..that changes evrything...The leak is most likely the piston seal...leaking around and past pistion...you should see fluid inside "cup" of piston..

GOOD LUCK....ps...I beleive you will have to "bench" bleed the new one also!!