1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Stuttering, lack of power problem...

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Old 12-07-2006, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by crazyinkc
Have you checked the CTS? It could be stuck at a value around 400 ohms causing the ECM to think the engine is always warm. Since it thinks its warm, it will go into closed loop and the O2 is not at temp yet. Just a thought.
Coolant Temp Sensor???
Old 12-08-2006, 10:12 AM
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Yes. I am sorry, I used the abreviation.
Old 01-14-2007, 06:02 PM
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Alright, now that it is gettin really cold out the problem(*) seem to be worse. When braking, while the car is still warming up (anything below ~200), the car starts to sputter, the lights start to dim along with each sputter. It seems to be better when it has reached full temp.
So, when I'm braking and pull up to a light/sign I throw it into neutral and give it gas to keep it going. Usually about 1500 rpm is enough to get rid of the sputtering. I haven't yet checked the coolant sensor or anything since the plugs/wires/fuel filter/vacuum lines. Once my financial aid comes in I'll be lookin to take it to the dealer and let them see what'* going on, since I have OBD1.5 and nobody'* got a reader... Any new ideas???
Old 01-14-2007, 06:26 PM
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sounds like coils to me.....we have a 1994 that did the same tjhing there extreamly easy to check...there is an article in tech info
Old 01-14-2007, 06:36 PM
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Dimming lights huh? Have you checked:

A) Terminals at the battery
B) Output terminal at the alternator
C) Grounds
D) Battery condition
E) Alternator condition

Your stuttering could very well be the coils not getting enough voltage/current
Old 01-16-2007, 02:06 PM
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Since it'* been quite a while since I read this thread and can't remember exactly all you've checked (and too busy/lazy to go read it all again)...

At this point, I suggest you thoroughly check your battery connections, including under the boots for corrosion and a solid connection. I can't tell you how many people have found their electrical gremlins there.

It'* free, other than a little of your time, some elbow grease, and maybe some dielectric grease (recommended). This may just save you a large dealer repair bill!
Old 01-17-2007, 08:06 AM
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It'* supposed to get up to 30 today so maybe I'll dig into it a little more. Checked the secondaries last night, they were all in the 5-8 range. (5.9, 5.9, 5.6, I think thats what they were).
Old 01-17-2007, 04:56 PM
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Checked a few things:
1. Primaries
0.7, 0.9, 0.9 (normal)
2. Secondaries
5.94, 5.70, 5.70 (normal)
3. Sprayed IAC with TB cleaner, wiped off the soot from the pintle.
4. Battery said 12.4V.
5. Checked battery cables, very little corrosion on the + side, put some dielectric into each hole and on each bolt, put it back together.

Started it up and it started to idle funny right away(TB cleaner???). Then a trip around the block to try and get any TB cleaner out of the TB if there was any left. We'll see how it goes tomorrow morning after she sits for a while. Now I gotta reprogram all my radio stations...
Old 01-17-2007, 10:19 PM
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Took it around town tonight and it heated up really quickly while still blowing cold air out the vents. It would hover around 215-225, and maxed out around 235-240, according to the dash. Thermostat??? Or the coolant sensor???
Old 01-17-2007, 11:01 PM
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Sounds like the coolant temp sender to me

What is the oil preassure saying when the temp gage is almost maxxed out? (I had something starnge happen to my car concerning the temp gage and oil preassure and coolant temp sensor )

How does your coolant look? Do you have to keep adding to the recovery tank?

I am assuming you have the Electronic Climate Control with your trim being an SSE?


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