ok, i bought this fuel pressure gauge:
IT SAYS ITS FOR CARS WITH A TEST PORT ON THE FUEL RAIL.
Do I need to use the adapter that came with the gauge?



Is this the test port?
WHAT DO I NEED TO KNOW REAGRDING THE PRESSURE HERE, just take the cap off ( by hand ) and put the nipple to the PGauge hose on it?



Is this the fuel pressure regulator?
Is this the exact hose to disconnect for the ONE part of the test?



Thanks in advance, especially willwren.. car is much improved in 10 days since joining this forum.. THANKS ![/img]

You don't need the adapter, and that'* the same gauge most of us us. Myself included.

Remove the dust cap and screw it on. A small amount of fuel will leak, so it'* best to put a rag under it first.

Make sure you route the clear tube safely. That'* the purge tube for the fuel when you reset the gauge. It will HOLD the highest pressure during each test, in much the same manner a compression tester does.

Actually, unless my Actron gauge is different, the button is only to release all pressure from the gauge and rail before you remove it. The pressure reading will go up and down as vacuum, pump pressure, etc., change - not stick at the highest reading until reset.

Not to nit-pick or anything, just don't want to confuse the man.

I may have 'em confused. I've used my compression gauge alot more than the fuel pressure gauge recently.

regarding the FPR, am i correct in what i think it is? and am i correct about which hose to pull off while doing the third test?

Yes, you got it.

ok.. done:

" on" ( after 3 cycles ) : 43 psi

"idle" : 39.5 psi

" idle with line off of FPR " : 48 psi

CAR WAS " cold " for all of this.

How do these numbers look guys ??

Starting to get to the low side, but not causing your problem.

Please have patience in waiting for replies. We don't live here, and have lives away from the Forum.



Start looking for vacuum leaks. At idle, spray carb cleaner very carefully on each and every vacuum connection. Follow all lines and hit all leak points. When you find one, it'll be because the carb cleaner being sucked in will increase your idle rpm'* as it combusts.

sorry.. i got spoiled by your fast responses .. Ok, im gonna go over the vacuum lines again. I think im gonna take a look at the Ground Bus Terminals too.. i know there was rust on those metal V'* that are exposed when the carpets out, so Im sure the grounds are not tip top..

Will report back if thats it.

Got the Carb Cleaner the other day to do this, but i replaced all the connections instead, imsure i missed one