Stumbling, Surging, Hesitation ** FIXED ** - Page 5 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 03-18-2008, 01:25 PM   #41
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ok, i bought this fuel pressure gauge:
IT SAYS ITS FOR CARS WITH A TEST PORT ON THE FUEL RAIL.
Do I need to use the adapter that came with the gauge?



Is this the test port?
WHAT DO I NEED TO KNOW REAGRDING THE PRESSURE HERE, just take the cap off ( by hand ) and put the nipple to the PGauge hose on it?



Is this the fuel pressure regulator?
Is this the exact hose to disconnect for the ONE part of the test?



Thanks in advance, especially willwren.. car is much improved in 10 days since joining this forum.. THANKS ![/img]
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Old 03-18-2008, 02:25 PM   #42
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You don't need the adapter, and that'* the same gauge most of us us. Myself included.

Remove the dust cap and screw it on. A small amount of fuel will leak, so it'* best to put a rag under it first.

Make sure you route the clear tube safely. That'* the purge tube for the fuel when you reset the gauge. It will HOLD the highest pressure during each test, in much the same manner a compression tester does.
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Old 03-18-2008, 02:37 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Make sure you route the clear tube safely. That'* the purge tube for the fuel when you reset the gauge. It will HOLD the highest pressure during each test, in much the same manner a compression tester does.
Actually, unless my Actron gauge is different, the button is only to release all pressure from the gauge and rail before you remove it. The pressure reading will go up and down as vacuum, pump pressure, etc., change - not stick at the highest reading until reset.

Not to nit-pick or anything, just don't want to confuse the man.
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Old 03-18-2008, 02:39 PM   #44
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I may have 'em confused. I've used my compression gauge alot more than the fuel pressure gauge recently.
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Old 03-18-2008, 04:40 PM   #45
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regarding the FPR, am i correct in what i think it is? and am i correct about which hose to pull off while doing the third test?
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Old 03-18-2008, 05:11 PM   #46
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Yes, you got it.
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Old 03-18-2008, 05:22 PM   #47
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ok.. done:

" on" ( after 3 cycles ) : 43 psi

"idle" : 39.5 psi

" idle with line off of FPR " : 48 psi

CAR WAS " cold " for all of this.
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Old 03-18-2008, 10:27 PM   #48
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How do these numbers look guys ??
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Old 03-19-2008, 12:24 AM   #49
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Starting to get to the low side, but not causing your problem.

Please have patience in waiting for replies. We don't live here, and have lives away from the Forum.



Start looking for vacuum leaks. At idle, spray carb cleaner very carefully on each and every vacuum connection. Follow all lines and hit all leak points. When you find one, it'll be because the carb cleaner being sucked in will increase your idle rpm'* as it combusts.
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Old 03-19-2008, 09:50 AM   #50
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sorry.. i got spoiled by your fast responses .. Ok, im gonna go over the vacuum lines again. I think im gonna take a look at the Ground Bus Terminals too.. i know there was rust on those metal V'* that are exposed when the carpets out, so Im sure the grounds are not tip top..

Will report back if thats it.

Got the Carb Cleaner the other day to do this, but i replaced all the connections instead, imsure i missed one
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