Strange Stalling - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 04-04-2008, 11:52 PM   #1
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Our Bonneville is a 98 SE. 145,000 miles. Periodically since I have owned it, it has stalled during decelleration. I have always been able to shift into neutral and restart it.

This past week, it has stalled during both decelleration and accelleration - only to restart again...until last night when it stalled and did not restart for 10 minutes....but It finally did.

I had it at the GM dealership today. They worked with it for 2 hours and could not duplicate problem. No codes. Fuel pressure is good.

Crank sensor? Anyone?

Thanks
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Old 04-05-2008, 10:57 AM   #2
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There are many possible causes for your problem. Crank sensor is one, and has a nasty habit of hiding that it has a problem. Other causes include a bad ignition control module, MAF sensor, intermittent fuel pump, and ground bus problems. Next time that it won't start, see if you are getting spark. In the meantime, check this techinfo article regarding the ground bus.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...=article&k=102
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Old 04-05-2008, 11:26 AM   #3
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Another common cause of your symptoms is corroded battery cables. You can't SEE the problem either, until you pull the boots off the battery end of each cable. If you find corrosion there, clean it up, apply dielectric grease, then go after the OTHER end of each cable.

Don't overlook this. We get a good 6-12 cars a month with these symptoms, and this is a very common cause.
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Old 05-02-2008, 05:41 PM   #4
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Well...this has been giving us fits since my last post. The car finally died and would not start...period. Turns out - it was a bad fuel pump and fuel sending unit. Then, a week later, it goes back to it'* old tricks and stalls. Then it takes 10 - 15 minutes to start again...so we finally tried a crank sensor. When the old sensor came off, it had a burned odor to it. A week later it quit again and would not start...for 2 days. The shop I took it to said it had fuel pressure and ground all the way back to the gas tank...and they indicated it was possibly a bad fuel pump. So the people that installed the fuel pump, etc had it towed back to them. They tried to start it to write up the ticket and nothing. But the next morning as they were beginning to try to run diagnostics, it started and hasn't failed since. They are keeping it - trying to get another failure. This is driving me crazy!
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Old 05-02-2008, 06:29 PM   #5
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I experienced a similar stalling problem with a '94 olds 3800. The culprit was a worn ignition switch. The diagnosis was difficult because the worn switch contacts would permit a trickle of current to flow, just enough to be read as normal voltage on a multimeter, but not enough to light a test lamp or to operate the ignition circuit. To find this, it must be tested when it is in failure mode. So, carry a 12V test lamp with you that draws some current. Mine is home-made from a tail-light bulb. Next time it fails, unplug the connector to the ICM and see if you can light the lamp between the pink wire and ground with the ignition switch in "run.".

Other random stall possibilities include a bad MAF sensor, bad ICM, bad coil, bad PCM, bad contacts to the ICM.
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Old 07-13-2008, 07:31 PM   #6
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Exclamation Car Stalls (dies out) On Decelleration

I am having a very similar problem... I have a 1994 Bonneville SE and everything used to be fine until a couple of months back... If I remove my foot off the gas it dies out, gauges drop and car turns off (like turning the key off)... I have had the ICM and bad coils replaced, I have heard that it can be the MAF sensor too... Will cleaning the MAF sensor and TB help??? Can anyone tell me how it is done... I don't know ANYTHING about fixing cars (I suck mechanically speaking) so as much detail would be appreciated... Thank you all...
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Old 07-14-2008, 01:11 AM   #7
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You can clean the maf with a q-tip and some alcohol, but they are delicate and a strand off the q-tip can cause a faulty reading so you mnust be careful. . An aerosol maf cleaner can be bought at most parts stores. Vacuum leak or O2 could cause the same problems. Best thing to do is take it to Autozone or other parts store that does a free trouble code test first.
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Old 07-14-2008, 04:38 AM   #8
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Thanks for the fast reply... I tried taking it to autozone and they said the cars not giving any codes at all... But I mean there has to be something wrong... Could the code thingie be like not working?? Anyway to check or fix that?? Thanks once again..

Last edited by Salazar; 07-14-2008 at 04:40 AM.
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Old 07-14-2008, 09:03 AM   #9
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Same problem with my '95 Olds 88. Random stalling with quick restart. No codes thrown. I drove it one day to the park, came out 5 hours later, crank, but no start or spark. Known good fuel pump, new battery cables. Had it towed home. Soon as the truck dropped it in front of the house, I jumped in and it started right up! I have been fighting this problem for months. I finally replaced the Cam and Crank position sensors. To date, no stalling. I am going to replace the ICM since it is OEM (167k) and the ignition switch as added insurance.

This has been an experasting problem since it will not stay in "failure" mode long enough to do any diagnostics and it will not throw any codes. Throwing parts at it is not my "normal" way of fixing things but sometimes it is all you can do.
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Old 07-14-2008, 11:57 AM   #10
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Trouble codes arent a catch all and OBD1 (your year range) is a primitive one. Yours symptoms are the most aggravating to figure. ICM,O2,plugs,plug wires,vacuum leaks,clogged PVC,bad cat, yada,yada,yada
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