Stant radiator cap Why? - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 06-03-2004, 12:56 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by lght1
hi

For what a radiator cap costs, and how vital it is to our machines, isnt it worth taking a look once in awhile, and maybe spending ten dollars on to possibly save many hundreds?
You would have a point if there was a history of these problems here, much less a SINGLE instance, which there isn't.

Quote:
One can be very careful in putting the hood up every day and checking the bottle, even adding coolant as needed....and STILL have the air problem because you didnt check the cap'* sealing surface for debris and replace accordingly.
Again, find me a documented case where this is true. Debris under the seal? Show me the money, Jerry.

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In my book, this is a little more important than painting one'* plastic engine cover..lol
I personally painted my SC cover because it was ugly after 10 years. If you're going to make this comparison, I'd suggest you never paint anything for cosmetic purposes on your car. I'll call you on it if you do.

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BTW, I just noticed that in the six years JR, you have had two water pumps. I would check the Ph of the dex immediately, and almost certainly flush and refill asap.
You're making a big scientific deal out of nothing. One of these pumps was a crappy rebuild. Don knows very well what he'* doing. I have the utmost respect for him, and our experiences here back up his knowledge/advice.

One last time. With well over 2500 cars here, we have yet to see a SINGLE instance of a radiator cap causing or contributing to any coolant related failure. NONE. The combined experience of jr's3800 and myself is inarguable here. When we're wrong, we admit it. Overwhelming evidence of the lack of problems here combined with our knowledge and experience is enough argument for me.

You're turning a $10 part into a drama, with no real evidence to back it up. I have hundreds of thousands of posts and a wealth of experience drawn from everyone here, as does jr's3800.

Show me the money, Jerry. I'd rather buy $10 worth of beer.
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Old 06-03-2004, 02:32 PM   #22
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hi

i dont much care if you replace yours or not. Both vehicles are over a decade old, and for JR, he seems to not care if anything happens or not.

But unfortunately, some of these younger guys here look to you two for advice, and they may very well adopt your "devil may care" attitude about spending this lousey ten dollars and taking a few minutes to even inspect the cap.

Logic would seem to indicate that the costs in time and money are very small relevant to the risks....but still you demand proof. I even wonder if you had even bothered to read any of these links as you would have seem pictures of the debris/corrosion I speak of.

http://www.motor.com/MAGAZINE/Pdf/082002_04.pdf

I have posted this link several times, so there is no exscuse for your claim of no proof/pictures of a cap, so i dont know where your coming from on this.

I have provided pictures and testimonials.....while you go on and on about your two cars and anecdotal observations about how it never happens here.

Are you wrong? Of course, because inspite of all pictures and observations from people more in the know than you, you continue to advise others as if to say " who are you going to believe, me or your lying eyes" ?

I drive about 1100 miles a week. I use M1 10w-30, not any cheap dino ( " ..cause its all the same.. " ) and do routine UOA to make sure the wear factors are as low as possible. During the half way point of the oil, a filter change is inorder and the exact amount of "make up" oil is recorded and added so it can be reported to the lab at time analysis. This "make up oil" will alter the TBN and make the oil a bit more robust than it actually was, so reporting the amount is crucial.

I also flush the tranny once a year, and after that, a partial change of atf every three months by dumping pan. The filter is replaced 2x per year at time of pan dump. The transmission and engine are cleaned once a year using a ester compound using a tighter oil change regimen. This is the only time of the year this engine uses dino.

The tires are rotated every oil change, the belt is replaced once a year

I spent time in my 20'* working around commercial fleets, and I know the importance of what some of you would likely call "excessive", but I have a very reliable car and never have been on the hook because she "stopped" on the highway.

In short, you would be serving your members much better if you adopted more of a preventative maintenance theme as opposed to the almost total devotion to cosmetic this and thats.

Each has its place, as these cars should be fun to own. But clearly, a stock looking car that is a reliable vehicle for work/school, is a bit more sensible than one broken in the yard, but has a pretty engine cover.


I am not disparaging you..I really am not. But on this thread..I totally and completely disagree with the two of you as your opinions in this case...could very well cost some poor member (*) a lot of money...money they may not have.

Why dont you start a thread on preventative maintenace that could be contributed to..for say a week. Than..after the week, it could be condensed down into several variations , one each for different types of service, that could help people avoid massive repair bills.
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Old 06-03-2004, 02:39 PM   #23
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hi


Dont be silly.
This is not personal...so dont take it as such.
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Old 06-03-2004, 02:45 PM   #24
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lght1,

Take your paranoia elsewhere. On this topic and on the K&N'*. You have no proof, and you're upsetting alot of people.

Drop both issues entirely. This is a repeat performance on your part, and it'* my job to keep the peace here. If you had a valid argument with documented proof, it would be different.
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Old 06-03-2004, 02:55 PM   #25
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Man, I can feel the love from a mile away. Can we agree to disagree, here?
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Old 06-03-2004, 03:01 PM   #26
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I understand your point of view, John. But this is a repeat performance.

This thread is under VIRTUAL LOCK. Only Staff and Gearheads may post opinions here for the clarification of this issue.

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Old 06-03-2004, 03:17 PM   #27
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Sorry to open this can of worms guys!
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Old 06-03-2004, 03:21 PM   #28
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Not your fault at all. Feel free to start another thread on the topic. lght1 won't be posting in it. We just need to dispel some rumors, and stop the paranoia here.

This thread is under VIRTUAL LOCK. Only Staff and Gearheads may post opinions here for the clarification of this issue.

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Old 06-03-2004, 05:30 PM   #29
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what childish behavior, and I am not talking about lght.
 
Old 06-03-2004, 05:36 PM   #30
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Childish behaviour? You have multiple personalities, apparently. Keep in mind the Admins can track IP'*. Your IP'* are identical, you have very similar email addresses, and you have the same grammatical habits.

lght1 has a history of paranoid behavior on this site. He (you) was asked to provide documented evidence of a single failure attributed to the radiator cap in a 3800. He wasn't able to do that.

Had he done so, many would listen. The same holds true for his past and present rants about silicon injestion due to K&N filters. Again, not a single case of attributed failure. The boy who cried wolf needs to stop believing everything he reads.

Here at BC, we want facts to back up warning cries. We have alot of facts here in our own database that prove him wrong from pure experience. We also have a hell of a staff of gearheads.

Now we'll do a real lock.

We will not have anyone crying wolf and starting a panic or unnecessary waste of their hard-earned money when there is no hard evidence to back it up. We have enough of a knowledge base and experience base here to determine this.
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