stalling - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 07-10-2006, 12:43 AM   #1
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Have a 1999 se, 75k miles. Starts and runs fine, except when stopping to wait to pull in a lot or store, or at a traffic light for 10 seconds or more. When giving the car gas, it just stalls without dying, like the timing isnt being advanced. The car just putters and you have to really lay on the gas to get it to start going. This doesnt happen if you don't sit and idle for less than a few seconds. Only when you idle in gear for more than a few seconds.
Mechanic did a professional fuel injector clean and it has good plugs and new wires.
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Old 07-10-2006, 01:38 AM   #2
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Have you had it scanned? If not, start there. Otherwise you're going to have 25 different guesses in this topic, and 25 possibilities makes it real hard to flip a coin.
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Old 07-10-2006, 08:44 AM   #3
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I had the same problem over the past week. Cleaned out the Throttle Position Sensor, Idle Air Conditioner Sensor, and Mass Air Flow Sensor, problem solved. But I got lucky and solved the problem on the first fix though.If that hadn't worked getting it scanned would have been my next step, you could drive yourself crazy tring to chase this problem down if you don't know what the computer is trying to tell you.
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Old 07-10-2006, 09:39 AM   #4
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A fuel injector issue is very rare. In fact, I've never seen a problem on this Forum that could be attributed to a dirty injector, and have only seen one failed injector cause a problem.

Your plugs and wires are hopefully not Bosch. But they wouldn't be an issue unless the problem was apparent at all times. Particularly in OD with the cruise set, climbing a mild hill or overpass. That'* when ignition problems cause the most obvious stumbling.

Again, your issue could be any number of 25 things. You can beat yourself to death on it, which is why the first step is always a scan. At least 50% of the time, your PCM will give you a good starting point by tossing a code, or your mechanic can scan and watch you drive to see what it may be. If there is no code, we can start helping you through it, perhaps even by hooking you up with a local member for help.

In the meantime, are you 'typedeaf'? If so, an Admin can reset your password for you.
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Old 07-10-2006, 10:25 AM   #5
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had it scanned, no codes showed up, that is why the mechanic checked the injectors, plugs, and wires, then replaced the wires.
Not sure what typedeaf is??
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Old 07-10-2006, 10:33 AM   #6
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This is one of them "shots in the dark" WillWren was referring to, but my 98 SE had a similar stalling problem when I first got it. I changed the Fuel pressure Regulator and tightened the loose nuts holding the throttle body on (that I just happened to find by accident) and she hasn't stalled since.

Does yours seem to stall at a certain temperature? Asking because that'* what mine did. If I had to idle at a light, etc (like you described), when she was just getting right to operating temp, she'd stall.

Again, just a shot in the dark unfortunately. But something to look for while you get the real experts some more details.
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Old 07-10-2006, 10:39 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcolvin
had it scanned, no codes showed up, that is why the mechanic checked the injectors, plugs, and wires, then replaced the wires.
Not sure what typedeaf is??
You are posting from the same IP address as that member.
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Old 07-10-2006, 11:11 AM   #8
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car stalls worse at operating temp. Also I think the alternator is on its way out, the volt gauge drops almost to red zone at idle, then goes up to around 12 when driving. This is a recent problem where the stalling and puttering at stoplights has gotten progressively worse over the past six months or so. Don't know if this helps.

P.*. Typedeaf is my son, didn't know that was his username until today.
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Old 07-10-2006, 11:31 AM   #9
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just to throw in my 2 cents, check fuel pressure (easy and cheap) Does it happen with a specific gas tank level? Fuel pump or stainer.
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Old 07-10-2006, 11:37 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcolvin
car stalls worse at operating temp. Also I think the alternator is on its way out, the volt gauge drops almost to red zone at idle, then goes up to around 12 when driving. This is a recent problem where the stalling and puttering at stoplights has gotten progressively worse over the past six months or so. Don't know if this helps.

P.*. Typedeaf is my son, didn't know that was his username until today.
The two could potentially be related. As your RPMs drop, a dead/dying alternator will produce less of the electricity your plugs need to keep the engine running. Go to your local parts store and get the alternator and battery tested. It'* sometimes hard to tell which one of them (or both) are causing the gauge to drop like that.
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